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  #11  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:54 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Makes sense to me to run with the thermostat for most effective flushing of the rad, but you're going to replace the rad anyway, right? Either way shouldn't hurt, might not want to run it that way too long but in summer weather probably OK for a little while.

Good to know there is a freeze plug that can fit in that hole -- I had wondered the same thing. Much nicer solution than a rubber plug!

On hoses -- the lower hose is still pretty readily available. IMC sells good-quality Mackay hoses, both upper and lower, so any IMC reseller should be able to get those for you. Here is one such reseller that offers great prices -- usually within a few cents of IMC wholesale shop cost when I have looked:

Upper hose part # is 1257347 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257347
Lower hose part # 1257992 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257992

Unfortunately the rad hoses are the only ones available aftermarket for D24 and D24T, as far as I have seen. The smaller dia. hose from the expansion tank to the cold tank of the rad is the same as used on gasser and is also available, but heater hoses are from Volvo only. Not difficult to fabricate from scratch, though. Here was one setup that worked well: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=608

For blocking off the oil cooler hose connection on the back of the head, theoretically would be possible to do the same thing as you did in the block if you could get enough access. D24 engines, which don't have the oil cooler and attendant hoses, have a small freeze plug installed where the (removable) hose connection is mounted on a D24T. You could remove the hose barb and have someone fill it up with weld, or try to get a freeze plug in, or use a rubber hose block-off cap -- but those caps never seem to last very long, being designed I think as a cheap temporary solution for desperate people with leaking heater cores... All the ones I have seen installed in that location have cracked and burst within a few months, don't know if it's from the high heat exposure or just junk material. Maybe you can find a good-quality one meant for permanent installation, but if you can avoid using one at all, that seems like it might be the best setup. Will be interested to hear what you are able to figure out...
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2013, 01:34 PM
745 TurboGreasel 745 TurboGreasel is offline
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some have a blanking plate held in by a screw off to the side.

I don't like running without the thermostat, as part of the 'open stat' position is to close the 'cold stat' recirc hole....so you end up recirculating extra, with a cool radiator. I pin a thermostat open, then install it.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2013, 05:22 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
On hoses -- the lower hose is still pretty readily available. IMC sells good-quality Mackay hoses, both upper and lower, so any IMC reseller should be able to get those for you. Here is one such reseller that offers great prices -- usually within a few cents of IMC wholesale shop cost when I have looked:

Upper hose part # is 1257347 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257347
Lower hose part # 1257992 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257992

Unfortunately the rad hoses are the only ones available aftermarket for D24 and D24T, as far as I have seen. The smaller dia. hose from the expansion tank to the cold tank of the rad is the same as used on gasser and is also available, but heater hoses are from Volvo only.
Man, George, that is some great news. I anticipated that those hoses would cost a small gold mine!

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8volvo View Post
Not difficult to fabricate from scratch, though. Here was one setup that worked well: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=608
I think once the flushing processes are completed I'm going to follow your advice and make the other hoses. Cheap to create and easier to replace when the time comes.

The rear cylinder head coolant bung is something I'd like a permanent fix to. Admittedly I've never poked around back there so that's my first step.
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Last edited by jbg; 08-07-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2013, 05:28 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel View Post
some have a blanking plate held in by a screw off to the side.
Oh man, this is the solution I've been looking for! What cars had this blanking plate? I assume D24 engines, did some have freeze plugs and others blanking plates?

Based on George's thoughts and yours I'll put the thermostat back in. Oh and yes, I am going to replace that radiator, it was getting pretty long in the tooth before the oil cooler failure.
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2013, 02:48 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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Default O-rings ...

In the mean time I'm going to re-use the right angle coolant plug for the rear of the cylinder head. The o-ring was very hard and split in two pieces on removal. Being proactive I went to the local Grainger which surprisingly had nothing that was close enough. Tyler on the D24 ML mentioned an A/C repair kit from Harbor Freight having the right o-ring. Looking at their website I see a "397 Piece Metric O-Ring Assortment" or a "225 Piece Metric Nitrile O-Ring Assortment" each under $10. I think I'll go this route and report back.

I mean really, you can never have enough o-rings!
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  #16  
Old 08-15-2013, 03:05 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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A little update ...

I started the car today about an hour ago after approximately 2 weeks of working on it. Fired right up! Here's what I accomplished since I last posted:
  1. Removed and reinstalled the intake manifold to removed the long coolant pipe which travels to the read of the cylinder head.
  2. Cleaned the rear coolant flange, installed a new o-ring, and fitted a small section of hose and a plug to temporarily seal the rear coolant passage.
  3. Reinstalled the Wahler thermostat.
  4. Added oil, soap, and water, checked for leaks and ran the engine for about 10 minutes.

For the o-ring I purchased the Harbor Freight "225 PC. Nitrile O-ring Assortment"; item 67609. This kit comes with a lot of o-rings, from a 3mm ID to a 22mm ID. For the rear coolant flange I used a "G22 22x3mm" o-ring. This fits appropriately snug around the flange neck and is thick enough to mimic that of the o-ring that was installed.

Kit was $4.99 on sale for $3.99 minus a 20% off coupon for $3.19. Naturally I also used my free flashlight coupon, too.

I plan to drive the car locally to get the temperature up and the soap flowing. I'll drain as time provides, but I believe it'll take 8-10 times. Then I'll replace the hoses, radiator, and a good coolant/distilled water mix; and call it winter.
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Last edited by jbg; 08-16-2013 at 04:08 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-27-2013, 11:44 AM
jbg jbg is offline
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I took the car for a quick spin (under 1.5 miles) and once I got down the road the temperature gauge started moving very high. Right before cutting the engine the needle suddenly jerked to the left, then straight up, and again to the right. My dashboard was otherwise behaving appropriately. Now I know my cooling capacity is reduced by having water and soap in the system, and a radiator with oil in it, but it still surprised me.

Could an air bubble cause this erratic gauge behavior?

In other news I think I have found the source of the oil leak! It's my headgasket that is leaking, oh joy. The gasket is a 3-notch fiber which I can only assume is in desperate need of replacing -- aside from the external leak. I'm wondering, could I just tighten up the head bolts in the mean time to try and squeeze the leak shut?

The draining and filling regime starts today and I hope to have it completed in two weeks or so. New radiators are in transit, too. Thanks for any advice.
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  #18  
Old 08-27-2013, 12:07 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Detergent should not cause erratic temp gauge behavior. Wouldn't expect to see an air bubble in the temp sensor area EXCEPT maybe in a low coolant situation. Specifically, similar behavior (temp gauge rises sharply, then falls to below normal) can indicate a major leak since coolant loss will leave the temp sensor high and dry. The sensor cannot register the temp of steam very well.

How long has it been since the last time you drove the car on a longer trip, long enough to have reached operating temp for say, 10 minutes? Was the coolant level normal? Have you refilled since then?

1.5 miles not really far enough to reach operating temp? When you opened the hood did the engine feel or smell overheated?

It could be elec. connection or flakey gauge but verify for sure. One cannot be too careful regarding overheating these engines.

Where is the oil leaking from? Both of mine leak just under the vacuum pump area. It is NOT the vacuum pump leaking.
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  #19  
Old 08-27-2013, 03:02 PM
jbg jbg is offline
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Thanks for the reply. I have not driven the car on any real distance as the gauge freaks me out and I opt to keep things very local. I drained the oily water-soap today from the radiator. It wasn't much liquid. I suppose the thermostat didn't open. Here is what I was assuming I would do to get things cleaned out:
  1. Drain.
  2. Fill with two cups of detergent and the rest water.
  3. Start the engine with the coolant cap off.
  4. Let it idle until the water level in the overflow tank drops. I assumed this to mean the thermostat opened and is pulling water/detergent into the block.
  5. Top-off the overflow tank and allow the engine to continue idling. Monitor for engine temperature.
  6. Repeat.

Is my process flawed? Silly question, but if I keep my expansion tank cap off will the thermostat ever open? Does the thermostat need both temperature and pressure to function properly? I've never thought to think about this until now.

Oil is coming from the passenger-side (US-spec) between the cylinder head and the block. Near the front of the engine underneath the exhaust manifold.
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Last edited by jbg; 08-27-2013 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Added silly question.
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  #20  
Old 08-27-2013, 03:23 PM
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I have had two D24t's valve covers leak at the front bearing cap. It leaked down the front of the cylinder head and followed the head gasket, making it look like the head gasket was leaking, more so on the 240 then the 740 as the engine is slanted more to the passenger side.
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