More Power pump/turbo (Project car)

[DrSpanky]

Howdy peeps

I'm looking to build a fairly powerful D24 with my mate over the coming years with the end goal being around 275-300bhp.

We have 2x D24tic engines and one D24t engine, i have some ideas on what we would like to do end game.



For the Moment we are running a normal D24tic @15psi stock turbo with the fuel turned up and a factory intercooler, ground LDA pin from a rover.

In come coming months (with the better weather) we are going to fit the Governor mod (already made from spare pump), New Heavy duty clutch, Water/Meth system (left from my previous car) and the N/A Manifold and Do a bonnet exhaust.


We also have 2x 12mm pump heads coming from a forum member, is it worth fitting to the car in its current form or worth waiting until we have strengthened an engine before fitting? or waiting until we have another turbo?


also any idea how a t04e-50 turbo would spool when running with a 12mm pump? Chinese copies of this turbo are cheap so i could use one of these for testing and mocking up before getting silly (and should support around 300bhp)



Dan

[anders]

The weak point on these engines is the cylinder head. The rotating assembly is nearly bulletproof.
I have fitted 4 of the 12mm pumps to d24t's.
1)Rebuilt d24 plus T with ARP studs running 20/25lbs on stock turbo.
2)Rebuilt d24t with AMC cylinder head that has been ported, ARP studs, turbonetics super 60 T3 turbo, large intercooler. 30/35 lbs of boost.
3) low mile stock d24t with ARP studs, small intercooler and a stock turbo with a T4 compressor.
4) 289,000 mile D24T completely factory with GTD nozzles and running 20 lbs boost.

I built the engines on #1&2, factory rods and crank, KS Pistons.
The stock turbo leaves lots to be desired with the 12mm pump.

#2 is a hoot to drive, hit the throttle in second gear and will throw you back into the seat pretty hard. It now needs a turbo upgrade..

A T3/ T4E 50 trim would be a good match.
Do some port work on the cylinder head, get studs! Flat cylinder head and deck on block.

You can fit the 12mm on a stock engine, there is enough adjustment to get the fuel turned down to keep the factory turbo alive.

Let the race begin for a high HP D24T!

[DrSpanky]

Cool thanks for the info

Do you know what Transmission was used in each of them? we have an m90 in the protect car.


How well do the standard rods and pistons hold up with the extra power?


My thought are for the "first" version.
Rebuild the engine, new bearings, seals, rings etc then ARP studs and a port job paired with a large single turbo charger and new injector nozzles.


Second engine
As above but with new rods and pistons (told PD130 would fit) flatten/deck and a custom girdle (depends on suggestions/research) but paired with a compound turbo setup aiming for 30psi of boost (1.7 and a 1.8 pressure ratio at full tilt, with small turbo having a variable PR before the big turbo kicks in) with a good spool and hitting the intended end power.



Thoughts on the intercooling were a small/moderate size Air to Air and then after that an air to water trying to keep everything compact reduce charge piping length. so air to air would be on one side of the grill in in and inlet and outlet coming from the same side (was thinking modified land rover intercooler) and the Water to air would replace the airbox. thoughts?



I did also for the end game like the idea of using a little electronically controlled propane injection (maybe a 20hp shot) to be used along side the water injection for when we fancy a little more kick or to get off the line quicker? also should run a second pipe into the bonnet exhaust to spit flames next to the black smoke as a show off.



An advice would be welcome.


Dan

[spiffy926]

That sounds bad ass, I'll be following this thread for sure!
D24s came with m46 transmissions, and an automatic for which I forget the name.

[anders]

All the cars have the m46 currently. The 244 will be getting a T5 transmission and a bigger turbo HX35 or HY35.

I haven't seen any failures in the rods or Pistons. It's said that the factory rods don't like boost in the lower rpm range but I don't know from experience, it could of been the failures occurred because of timing too advanced.

I wouldn't be afraid of using a completely stock components D24T with studs and port work with compounds on it and get it to boost 10lbs by 1200rpm and getting a max boost of 35/40 lbs.

Large air to air intercooler is all that's needed, if it's in a 7xx or 9xx car there's lots of room for one.

A small shot of propane when in full boost/ full fuel would be a neat idea. I have thought about it numerous times.

[ian2000t]

Where are you guys finding 12mm heads, and how much are you finding them for?

I've been looking for an 11/12mm head for ages.

[anders]

It took me some time but I found a supplier for the 12mm heads. I will be placing another order of them real soon, I will let you know when I get them.

[ian2000t]

Excellent, thanks!

[240TDi]

Damn, looks like im gonna have my work cut out for me to beat you guys lol. Highest hp d24t i know of is in a 740 sedan, has an hx35 and 12mm pump head. It is around a 260hp motor. There is another one in a green 75 240, but there is very little info on this car and to my knowlage its never been dynoed. Im trying to do the best of everything i possibly can for my build to try and break the 300 mark. Good luck guys, will be following

[DrSpanky]

Sooooo many a thing has changed and this project has been delayed and changed, i now own a house and have my own little garage to work in.

I have still been collecting bits the focus has now changed to fix my 740 rather than work on the 940 project car.

So the new outline is to replace the old leaky, hard to start engine in my 740 that is my daily driver. The main priority is to have a good solid engine that will support good power in the future but to give me a nippy more efficient engine setup for today (ish)

As most of you know to get low end power and off of the line you need to up the fuel... that makes it smokie because the turbo is not lit yet. To make more top end power and the burn the fuel you will need a bigger turbo. So most people would look at going to a compound turbo setup but this add higher drive pressure and is more complex to control and spec.

My solution is an Eaton M45 mixed with an oversized twin scroll turbo and an electronic bypass valve.

I only started working on this is january and i don't really have any major fabrication skill so i'm learning as i go so be gentle .


The idea is a supercharger blows into the turbo inlet giving the turbo pre-compressed air. As the turbo spools up and the pressure drops between the Supercharger outlet\Turbo inlet a bypass valve will open allowing the turbo to ingest air from the supercharger and a second air feed. This will be controlled by an arduino microcontroller a stepper motor controller, two map sensors and a push to make switch (with additional switches on dash for manual control). I will add a oled screen into the blanks on the odometer to give me live information on pressure and bypass info, air temp or any other info i desire (mess about video on google drive ignore the silliness it was a video i sent to my mates).

The idea is you start the car the egr switch is connected and the bypass valve opens, you put your foot down and pull away the bypass valve closes until you the pressure ratio drops or a timeout threshold is met (ie the turbo is lit or your cruising) this logic is then reset on throttle reset. The bypass will be variable based on if it was triggered by pressure drop or cruise (i would expect on cruise 100% open and a lower percentage on gear change for response). This would have to be tweaked over time to account for driving in traffic maybe a toggle switch for "traffic mode" ie i can just activate the bypass to limit engine load and maybe a "reset" button for overtaking so i wouldn't have to cut throttle to overtake.


Supercharger would have a 2.63 pulley ratio on a 10% undriven pulley and would make 9psi with a max 15.7k rpm (with the engine at 6000 rpm) the T4 crank pulley is bigger than expected

All of this requires a serpentine belt conversion, power steering pump removal and clutched alternator.

Parts involved/available/using so far
4mm Cam Plate (from a Perkins) Bosch 1466111626 (pin needs pressing out and grinding down)
Custom Phenolic intake spacers
Eaton M45 supercharger (mini)
Ebay special turbo (twin scroll)
Ford CMax electronic throttle body (as bypass valve)
Water to air Cooler
N/A inlet manifold
non egr exhaust manifold (for Twin scroll conversion)
VW T4 crank pulley 18/19cm
VW T4 alternator
T3 Flange (for twin scroll insert)
Longer exhaust stud (M10 x 52 (Ford))
Recon Steering rack (not this it matters for the build)



Ordered and waitting on delivery)
MONARK DN0SD293 injectors (Germany)
6x D24 ACM Connecting Rod (Sweden)
VAUXHALL ASTRA G MK4 POWER STEERING PUMP

(not using the 12mm pump as thats for the other project/money pot)

Things i still need to get/do
Head rebuild
Rebuild engine
Ve Timing spacer
Clutch disk (have a sach pressure plate available)
Flywheel checked


Money shot - I have welded more since just a rough look











Google Drive link with all pictures as i go along i will upload them if anyone is interested
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...GA?usp=sharing