Power Steering Pump Mounting Bushings

[RedArrow]

Thanks for all your info! I inspected the PS pump and noticed that the lower bushings are in bad shape, cracked and softened, deeply carved in. Especially the front one. That`s probably the reason that the belt is not aligned perfectly. The pump `went downwards` a little, tilting the assembly a bit, putting some extra pressure also on the upper bushing that came out of the hole towards the front of car 3-4mm. The front seal of the pump does leak in the middle area so I will have to get to Autozone asap and get the parts you suggested and do the rebuild. For now as an SOS solution I used the `turkey fluid extractor` and took old fluid out, replaced it with the proper atf. System does not have air in it, no bubbles visible but my steering is not Volvo-like so that tells me what`s going on. Drops on the ground, nothing major but I want this fixed and focus on other treats for the car. Oh btw I did fix the ignition switch as well, well that`s a long story but now it is back and working.

[RedArrow]

Thanks!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=21419_0_0_
I`ll visit Autozone tomorrow to buy ball joints and various bushings for a friend`s es300. AutoZone's parts search is NOT so dieselVolvo friendly. Would this seal-kit work on the d24t Saginaw pump system??

[Swallowedhook]

Tom Bryant in Maine is the guy most English go to as the D24T guru.
thosbryant@gmail.com / https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/ I'm new to the engine and was referred by an English guy. Tom will explain to you that the power steering bracket is poorly designed and most will fail eventually. He designed a new bracket and had it cast in aluminum and machined. He made 20 of them and spread the set up cost across those 20. Not cheap, but a permanent fix. He also rebuilds the cruise control spool so it is not subject to adverse vibration. Many many fixes on his blog. He replied to my newbie questions with 3 LONG emails, explaining concisely the issues causes, and fixes. For those who haven't read his blog, he's a great resource. He's an old fart like me. Got to pick the brains of these boomers so the info isnt lost to time....especially since the BOOMER DOOMER virus is stalking us old guys.
Best of luck!

[RedArrow]

[QUOTE=v8volvo;6236]
The fluid leak is probably a separate issue, very often on these old power steering pumps the main O-ring that seals the pump housing to the reservoir gets tired and starts to leak after a while. Fortunately it is quite easy to get parts to fix it since the pump is made by GM (Saginaw) and is shared with many GM vehicles from the '70s and '80s, hence extremely common.... CarQuest sells a pump rebuild kit for under $20 that is applicable for the D24 power steering pump, part # 35039, and replacing the seals is relatively easy especially if you already are going to have the pump removed to replace the mount bushings.
The kit comes with pump shaft bushings, etc as well but the pumps themselves seem to never have any issues at all, only the leaky seals so I have never used the bushings.[/QUOTE


Thanks for the info on the part number.
I found it as GATES 350390 and finally got it done because the reservoir usually looks `shiny and just a little wet` on the bottom area. A `leak` usually happens only in the Winters so I decided to do it in time. The kit has 12 or 13 parts in it, bushing and seals/o-rings etc as you mentioned.
I didn`t take the entire pump apart fully, I decided to leave it alone and only used up a couple of seals from the package, I think I used up only 5-6 rubber seals total.
The largest, main o-ring was the cause, I think. All orings were also hardened and kind of square-shaped or `flattened out`. The largest oring broke into 3 pieces when I inspected it... it was time for this reseal to get done.
Of course the rusty looking parts got cleaned up and painted, nothing should go back on the engine looking crap or oily.

I should`ve added a new PS belt too, but I was lazy to deal with the alternator belt (I use the tightening method you shared here to install&tighten it properly to avoid slipping). I didn`t run the engine while the PS system was taken apart and I did fill the reservoir back up right after finishing the job.

But now I still can`t get the air out and something is holding it from being bled out.
Maybe you have a trick or something? Am I missing the point here?

I followed this advice I found online, with no success. The fluid is topped off (warm engine) to the proper level. The annoying part is that when I did the reseal I haven`t really ran the car at all in the first place to get air in the system.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ste...edingProcedure
I did what it suggests and had it done 2-3 times at least, for both sides, twice.
Then with the engine running. Then again, without much change at all. The fluid level rose a little bit when I did that first.
Maybe I should get the car on jacks to have it done easier.


I haven`t removed any components such as tie rod ends etc and IDK why it suggests doing that for the bleeding.
All I did was removing the reservoir for the reseal.
yes, it may have introduced air thru the two hoses but does it have to be so hard to get it out? Also IDK what type of rack this d24t has.

Ideas welcome and thank you.

( Is that magnet supposed to just simply be randomly floating around in there? )

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by RedArrow

But now I still can`t get the air out and something is holding it from being bled out.
Maybe you have a trick or something? Am I missing the point here?

I followed this advice I found online, with no success. The fluid is topped off (warm engine) to the proper level. The annoying part is that when I did the reseal I haven`t really ran the car at all in the first place to get air in the system.

Did you try this? (from your link):

"Note: If the system is filled too quickly, the fluid can be prone to retaining air. Once this occurs, it can take one to two days of normal driving before the air is released from the system."

Originally Posted by RedArrow

( Is that magnet supposed to just simply be randomly floating around in there? )

If it was just floating around in the fluid I'd say it has lost its magnetic charge. Throw it out and add some fresh ones. I use ones from my old Sonicare toothbrush heads. Extremely strong. Place them where they will have a good chance to entrap ferrous bits drifting by.

[RedArrow]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Did you try this? (from your link):

"Note: If the system is filled too quickly, the fluid can be prone to retaining air. Once this occurs, it can take one to two days of normal driving before the air is released from the system."

two days driving would take me to Key West! nice )))) but driving a fish-tank without AC?!!!!! (=a 745)

but I know what they mean.

well, I`ll have no chance but to jack it up and help it out by a new test: redo it all by the same advice then do it again with engine running ... THEN wait and drive locally ``for two days``.

The magnet I found is still very sticky so I reused it but I was surprised that it wasn`t glued to any surface such as it is for example in the m46 bottom overdrive pan.
I thought of adding another, round, extremely strong magnet, one of those hematite looking halfmoon ones that one cant just grab off a fridge without prying.
I consider adding a filter into the line to see what it catches, I read an article that it works way better than flushing the system through. An inline filter caught a huge amount of stuff despite a flush being done earlier, for the guy who wrote that article about the small filter. He was surprised to see as much crap caught because he flushed twice. The old rack might appreciate this filter, IDK even if just temporarily for circa few hundred miles.