#1
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Injection pump bolts
Hi folks
I want to time the injection pump on my 740.Ther are I believe 4 fixings to undo. Two nuts on the back end of the pump and one allen screw and a bolt on the front end through the mounting bracket. Can someone tell me what size allen key will I need for the allen bolt. |
#2
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Hello "whatarascal",
I believe the head of that allen screw is size 6mm. However, I would not recommend loosening the injection pump from its bracket and rotating it to advance or retard the timing. Please see this post for an alternative method: http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=968&postcount=3 The short answer is the pump-rotation method will weaken the individual injector hard lines. Its also arguable that this method is less-precise as the one described in that link. Whatever you choose good luck!
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Jim 1985 Volvo 740 GLE turbo diesel |
#3
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I'm pretty sure the allen is a 6mm. I have always timed my VE pumps by twisting them, and then rechecking with the dial gauge like the book says. If your timing is only slightly off, the small movement isn't going to have much of an effect on the lines. If however you need to really twist the pump to get it in spec, I would loosen all the injector lines, and retighten when your done.
Just my .02! Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics! |
#4
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It is better to leave the pump alone and time it by changing the position of the rear cam sprocket, for many reasons. One, it saves wear and tear on the hard injector lines which are getting difficult to find, two, it is more precise, three, it prevents ending up with the pump set in a position that will then make it impossible to get #5 and #6 injectors out if you should ever need to do that, and four, well, it's just plain easier.
If you have the long-snout dial indicator holder (the Volvo one that moves the indicator back a few extra inches so you don't need to remove the vacuum pump to get it in) and time it by using the pulley method (need a big sprocket counterhold tool like Volvo 9995199 or a Metalnerd universal sprocket buster or similar, and a 19mm wrench), adjusting the timing on a D24T takes about 5 minutes. No joke. Trying to do it by moving the pump, fooling with inj lines, etc takes at least five times as long and involves much more work and mess, plus the risks mentioned above. On a 4cyl VW diesel (or an early TDI) there is no other option for setting the timing other than changing the position of the injection pump, so that is the method you have to use.... but on a D24T, there is a better way.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#5
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I'll have to try doing it that way next time...
Jason
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Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics! |
#6
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Well thanks people for the advice.I have a timing tool now.
But I did undo the 4 bolts and advance the pump a small amount. The car runs on good quality biodiesel and recently the rear seal started to leak this was replaced by my local garage.Cheap enough. When they put the pump back I recon it wernt in the same place.So it was chuging on startup. Now it starts clean and runs great no excess noise. |
#7
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Good to hear...
Sounds like the forum is helping keep some of these on the road, which was my goal in the first place. Jason
__________________
Back again with a '84 760 GLE D24T/ZF SOLD but not forgotten! 1984 760 Sedan, built D24Tic/ T-5 swapped My engine build: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t...t=engine+build T-5 swap: http://d24t.com/showthread.php?399-W...to-quot-w-pics! |
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