Jason's "built" D24T engine build - Page 4

Jason · #31 08-12-2010, 08:10 PM

Thanks... Its going to get interesting once it goes in and gets the "built" 12mm head pump I'm planning.

Jason

cuaz64 · #32 08-24-2010, 07:03 PM

About head milling. I remember that Volvo Greenbooks says that you can mill them a little bit, and the Brickboard FAQ says that you can go a little bit more than the Greenbook says.

Jason · #33 09-24-2010, 09:28 AM

Well, finnally an update for you guys! I just bought a core D24 head (for prechambers I need, a shim carrier, and the NA cam), and I just sent the money to a guy for the rest of the ARP head studs. All I have left to get is the water pump, head gasket, and belts. I should be bolting the head down within the next couple weeks. I've got to finnish up a bathroom remodel I'm in the middle of and we have our wedding reception next week with family comming from out of town. Not to mention pulling the trans out of my F350 to get rebuilt. Once all that crap is done, I can get back to work on the engine!

Jason

Jason · #34 10-13-2010, 05:02 AM

Studs are here, as well as the head studs. I'm going to order the head gasket shortly. The trans rebuild for my truck is like $1400... Kinda taking the wind out of my engine budget for the volvo. Gotta get it together though, the engine thats in the car is getting pretty damn tired. Besides the trans is getting noisy too, I think the imput or mainshaft bearing is going. Its just non stop with this thing! Once its together though.... Its gonna be bad ass!

Jason

Jason · #35 10-14-2010, 07:01 PM

Well, it finnaly gave up.. I think the head gasket blew. Its blowing coolant from the resivior, and its eating coolant non stop. I was thinking it could be my cap went bad, but upon trying another cap off Alex's car, it just super pressurized the system, the hoses were hard as a rock (kinda suprised the cap didn't bleed off before that??) Cant really complain, it has close to 200k miles on it, and the last 15 thousand or so have been REAL hard thanks to me. 25lbs of boost on stock head bolts! I cant believe it lasted this long. This is just kicking my but to get in gear on the new engine!

Tonight, I beat out the prechambers from my core and and started installing them. I also installed the valve seals. I should get the head totally assembled by tomorrow. I also ordered up a steel head gasket, since our supplier was out of the fiber ones. Vovlo gets 114 bucks for one these days, the guy said it was special order but didn't say it was any problem to get. Once the gasket shows, I can get the head bolted on and start assembling more pieces onto the engine. My goal is to get it to where the motor mounts are on and timing belt installed so all I have to do is swap the injection pump and alternator off the other engine when it comes out. Trans is comming out too to be gone through. I'm also going to get the clutch plate rebuilt, as its slipping the clutch in 3rd and 4th when you shift hard under full boost (even with the worn out engine!). It hasn't been the same since I had to get it on the trailer in 4th gear when the M46 went and that was the only gear I had. I think the clutch spring got superheated and lost some strength. Kinda long winded update, but thats whats been going on. Didn't want everyone to think I forgot about the project! Pictures to come...

Jason

v8volvo · #36 10-15-2010, 12:05 AM

Sounds like a blown HG to me. Usually on D24s and VW diesels the headgasket seems to blow between an oil passage and a coolant passage, but I think that's when they blow because they were overheated. In your case it was probably the boost that popped it, so it makes sense it would pressurize the cooling system with combustion gases instead. Either way, I'm impressed it took that motor as long as it did to finally lay down, considering the kind of use that it was being subjected to...

Hey, at least now you've got a good core motor for when you wear the next one out.

Would be worth trying a cap just to see what it does. A new 150kpa cap is a good move, it's what the car was designed for and won't overpressurize. Maybe that's all that is wrong, or would at least help it limp along for a little while longer. Wouldn't want to let it get an airlock in the cooling system and then overheat and warp the head though. I'd be watching the temp gauge close while driving if there's any question of an HG issue.

I think I remember you saying you didn't put in a new pilot bearing that fit the input shaft on the T5 tighter when you swapped transmissions? Wonder if the trans bearings would have held up better if there had been more support on the input shaft. On the new motor it might be worth finding a bearing that is the right size and high quality, and see if that helps it out.

Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out...

Jason · #37 10-15-2010, 04:17 AM

So 150 is the correct pressure... The system is probably getting more pressure than it should, but like I said I would have thought the cap would bleed off some pressure. Its only supposed to be what 14lbs or something. The hoses felt like they had about 60psi in them... They were hard! I'm just parking it before I do any damage. I've got a friends truck to drive while I get mine back together. The trans should be done today and I'll be installing it Monday.

As for the imput shaft bearing, I thought it may be going bad because of a vibration I was feeling, untill I figured out the shifter was comming loose. Once it had enough slop to feel and I noticed, I tightened it up and no more vibration. I was that all along. Trans is getting gone through either way, I need to fix 5th gear and it pops out of 2nd every once and a great while if you shift into it but decelerate.

Jason

nick · #38 10-19-2010, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason

This engine will also be getting my hotrod injection pump that I'll be building, but not untill after its running with my current pump and broken in. I've got a couple spares and am planning on building one with a Cummins 12mm head, and a 2.8mm lift cam plate. Also planning on doing a HE351 turbo of a common rail Cummins with the bigger pump. I'm hoping to make 250 to the wheels...

Jason

Are you going to use a p7100 injection pump off of a cummins too? I didn't know if that was what you meant when you said a "hotrod" IP. I have a he351ve laying around that I'd like to put on my 760 one day, after I replace the head gasket. I just have to find a steel gasket before I do anything.

Do the bolt holes in the cummins head line up with the threads on the d24t block?

Jason · #39 10-20-2010, 04:56 AM

No I'm talking about the VE pump found on the 1st gen cummins 12 valve engines. I'll be using the pump head (12mm vs. our stock 10mm) and the came plate which runs the head. Our cam plate is 2.2 or 2.3mm of lift. That head can push enough fuel for over 300hp. I'm not sure what you mean by the cummins head lining up with the d24 block, if your talking the cylinder head, no its huge and totally different since its a direct injected engine. The turbo will bolt up to our manifold though since they are a T-3 flange.

Jason

Jason · #40 10-20-2010, 05:02 AM

Ok, time for an update with pics. I got the head totally assembled with new valve seals. I got the spring compressor from work to check the lb rating on the springs and compaired it with the green book. Didn't want to take any chances with a weak spring since the engine is going to get up in the rpms often. I just got a selection of valve shims today so I'll start adjusting the valves. Cam is bolted in, and I also did some measuring on the NA cam, and I will compair it to the turbo cam when the other engine comes out. Also flat filed the head and block surface, and installed all the head studs... Its starting to look like something!

For any inquiring minds, the NA cam measures .330" lift at the cam. Once I get the belt on, I'll measure the duration at .050" as well.

Jason