DN0SD297 Nozzles... 185Bar Open Pressure

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by Ekus

That high pop injection pressure is not good for the stock turbo really...

Well I was wondering why you wanted that high of a pop anyway. Burning veg oil?

Originally Posted by Ekus

clutch and maybe flywheel, whining under load and judder in reverse...

Mine has continued to judder forward and back at takeoff. Even after new clutch disc, pressure plate, 2-surface flywheel resurfacing, two different trannys, new motor mounts, new trans mount. Good Luck!

[Ekus]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Well I was wondering why you wanted that high of a pop anyway. Burning veg oil?

Mine has continued to judder forward and back at takeoff. Even after new clutch disc, pressure plate, 2-surface flywheel resurfacing, two different trannys, new motor mounts, new trans mount. Good Luck!

I just did not care about it when i bought them, they cost me almost nothing, and i firstly thought they have no too much pressure increase at all... but i made a mistake really!

Ok, seems that judder is invincible I don't care too much about it really, but whining/hauling is other thing, i need fix that, it's horrible and it has a really bad smelling
I will remove gearbox next week...i will tell you

[Ekus]

I know your volvo's have wax operated cold start device, but can you help me with my manual cold start device please?
I don't know how do i have to use it correctly... i read it's necessary to use it when engine cold and ambient temps are above 15F, pulling it out, waiting for glow plugs light off, starting engine and pushing it in once engine warmed.
Is it necessary to push throtle 1/3 of its travel while cranking if CSD is used?

is the glow plug light turning on a sign of the need of using the cold start device? I mean, if glow plug light is not lighting, do i have to use the CSD? I know when engine is hot CSD in not used, but what if engine is warm(not hot) and glow plugs light is not lightning?

(excuse me my bad english please)

Thanks

[745 TurboGreasel]

Most of the non waxstat cold start devices I have seen, the linkage bumps the idle as needed.

It is not an on /off thing, but a proportional control ...tapers off as engine warms. It doesn't get much below freezing here, and I've never had one that worked. I think my VW caddy had a cable operated one, but I never needed it.

[Ekus]

I live in warm climate, maybe i could start engine without it, but using it engine starts by only touching the key,its amazing! If engine is hot it starts the same without using it. I found when engine is cold but not enough for the glow plug lights turn on, the best is to just pull a little the knob and then start the engine, and pushing the knob once the engine is running.

I have a little problem with black smoke in third gear if pulling, what can i do for fixing it? is the smoke screw in top of the pump the way for reducing it? I can pull it in second gear with almost no smoke, but when pulling it in third gear it smokes black. I have a boost gauge and i can not see almost boost when pulling, maybe 0.2 or 0.3 bar... I did not change the o-rings of the turbo to manifold pipe... is there an air leak maybe that is producing that problem? or do you think is a pump adjustment screws issue related? Timing is spot on

Thanks

[ngoma]

Recently I posted some links to IP tuning, LDA tuning, look around in some recent threads, you'll find it. Talks about smoke at different boost levels and how to adjust for it. No time for me to find it for you right now, sorry.

[Ekus]

I found it, it's in the 'Hazing d24t' thread http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

Very good info. I will try to make some adjustments, i will mark before the original positions. Thanks