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  #1  
Old 09-19-2023, 10:11 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igor9212 View Post
I guess I'm excited about the journey, but dont mind paying someone else to do the repair work. Kind of admire from afar, and be able to enjoy it once its running.


The previous owner ( who had it sit in the shop) states he changed headgasket, fixed the timing, but it was running too rough, because he didnt have the correct tool to get the timing set up.
That story of not having the tools/know-how to do the final timing steps is a classic "end of the road" for a diesel Volvo.

Odds are good that person also didn't have the tool to correctly torque the big bolt at the front of the crankshaft, which is the other common end of the road when that bolt loosens up and the engine comes out of time and destroys virtually every moving part inside it.

Both outcomes of course very easily avoidable simply by doing the work correctly. Nothing about the correct process is difficult at all, and as Bogford above noted it can be highly satisfying for someone who understands what they are doing and has the right equipment. BUT many folks believe they know better or will attempt time-tested shortcuts that worked out well on other engines, and try to get away without following procedure. That always leads to tragedy and disaster.

All of this is a cautionary tale regarding your idea about finding a shop to do the work. That could be a good path IF you could find the kind of shop capable of it. It would have to either have an employee who knows these rare (and nowadays even rarer) engines very well, or is smart, humble, patient, curious/interested, not pressed for time to complete the job, and willing to learn from non-professionals such as those on this forum and/or carefully study the manual so as to climb the considerable learning curve. Preferably this person would be someone who has deep knowledge of VW diesel engines such as TDI. It WILL NOT help much if they know big diesels well (such as diesel trucks) so a typical "diesel shop" is probably to be avoided. Techniques that work well on say, for example, a Ford Powerstroke pickup are not good for working on this Audi-based diesel in the Volvo. Different principles and philosophies.

And of course that shop or person would also have to have ALL of the correct special engine tools or be able to acquire/borrow them.

If any of the above were not the case, all that would happen taking it to a shop is you'd spend a load of money ... perhaps rebuild the engine if it's indeed seizing on the pistons ... and ultimately end up exactly in the same place as the last fellow who reached a point where he could go no further and failed to reach successful completion due to the timing process.

None of this is meant to discourage you from saving the car -- quite the opposite. It's just a warning that "saving" it will first require careful effort to ensure the car lands in the correct kind of hands, either someone who can do the work properly for you, or a different owner who can take it on themselves. The car looks great and absolutely it should be revived one way or another. But an ill informed attempt to save it will result in failure and waste of your time and money.

Are you familiar with Tom Bryant in Maine? He is one of only a handful of folks in the country who you could hire to successfully do this for you ... and he's not far from you!

Or, if it seems like more of an undertaking than can be done with the resources that are available to you ...... the best thing would be to find it a caring home with an enthusiast who can work on it for fun and has the knowledge to do it. Starting with Goteborg who inquired in a post above.
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  #2  
Old 09-19-2023, 10:25 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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As for the engine that does not want to turn -- your buddy's advice is probably not going to get you very far. Yes some kind of lubricant might help free the pistons if they are in fact seized in rusted cylinder bores......... but if that is the case, getting it freed up to turn is not going to change much about the overall situation the engine is in, as the bores will be pitted by rust, rings damaged, and it will need a full teardown and overhaul to run. Further damage could occur to those parts from an attempt to get them moving around. So you don't gain a lot from the (significant) work of disassembling the fuel or glow system and could have something to lose. In either event it almost surely would not lead to a healthy running engine without major additional work, assuming your supposition about rusted cylinders is true.

And in the unlikely case that the engine did start after that treatment (remember you have 25 year old fuel in the fuel system too), that might be a bad outcome given the ancient timing belt. And furthermore still, you have information telling you that the timing was off when it last ran, so it's not gonna run any better now!

Did you try ngoma's suggestion of rotating the engine by hand with a ratchet? That is a safer way to try it than using the starter and will give you more of a "feel" for what is going on. Using the key and starter is not a good idea given all the unknowns you are dealing with -- could cause new problems. The best way to get this engine running will be by using great care and some patience. Quick and dirty methods could end up digging a deeper hole in terms of eventual reconditioning.

Sorry if our advice here doesn't sound as easy as some other advice you might have heard -- but we want to help give options that will have a real chance of success both for you and the car, which some other approaches would not.

Whatever path you go down, we welcome you to the group! Glad you found us here.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2023, 09:19 AM
igor9212 igor9212 is offline
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the engine turns about 10 degrees until there is resistance.. I have a video but not sure how to log it in here . which website can i use to upload and tag in here?

Wondering what next steps are..

Last edited by igor9212; 10-03-2023 at 11:07 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2023, 11:24 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Just to clarify: You are getting 10deg. of free rotation from hard resistance to hard resistance, back and forth? (10deg. looks like approx. 3 minutes on a clock face.)

This site can host photos (size limited, click on the paperclip icon when posting to see the accepted file type chart) but not sure it can do video. Maybe you could post it to youtube and link to it here?
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2023, 02:20 PM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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Observe the camshaft sprocket at the rear of the cylinder head while you are rotating the 27mm crankshaft pulley screw. Does it rotate at all when you rotate the crankshaft pulley?
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2023, 03:17 PM
igor9212 igor9212 is offline
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https://imgtr.ee/image/IMG-3580.9ukA7

I will upload video shortly
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  #7  
Old 10-03-2023, 03:30 PM
igor9212 igor9212 is offline
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https://youtube.com/shorts/3Uih1GxgI...tXjlwDKA1wbmgn
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  #8  
Old 10-03-2023, 04:36 PM
Goteborg Vapenfabrik Goteborg Vapenfabrik is offline
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Timing belt intact, that’s good. Next step would be removing all six glow plugs to then attempt to rotate the crankshaft pulley ,if one of the cylinders is hydro locked the coolant will be expelled.

Last edited by Goteborg Vapenfabrik; 10-03-2023 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Syntax
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