2.0TD into 1987 VW Quantum Syncro Wagon

[Nevadan]

Originally Posted by v8volvo

Interesting. I always thought the 5cyl engines used the same plunger/diaphragm type vacuum pump mounted on the side of the head and driven off the cam lobe, identical to a D24 or D24T. In fact I'm almost sure I have seen some 5cyl diesel and gas engines that had that plunger style pump.

Does your engine have the mounting location for the plunger style pump as well? I wonder why they used this different setup here. Maybe something about the vacuum demands on the original car the engine was in being greater than the other type pump could supply, and this pump has higher capacity to compensate? Like if the former automatic trans had a vacuum based control system, or vacuum hvac or door locks like some cars from the '80s did? Maybe we will never know for sure.



I got my Toyota pickup with a TDI swap running and driving around the block for the first time 3 YEARS ago and am STILL buttoning up loose ends, wiring harnesses, plumbing routings, etc. Still have quite a bit yet to do, even now after all this time. 3 weeks is pretty quick in the grand scheme of these kinds of projects IMO!!

There's a casting for the plunger style pump but nothing is machined on the head.
The center and rear differential lock use vacuum to hold the lockers in place so maybe that's why, there's also not much room for the side mounted pump with all the hoses there.

I think I'll be working on some of the electrical stuff for some time, the tach, oil pressure warning light which I think has some connection to the tach, re-plumbing the cooling for the waxstat, etc., etc.

I'll post more photos today with a few more questions.

This is the first time I've done more than just a rebuild or engine swap and it's definitely time consuming. It's so nice to have access to that big shop even though it's 100 miles away, it has actually save me a lot of time; not having to wriggle around in my small garage.

[Nevadan]

Here's some alternator photos, this first one showing a possible W terminal that's currently connected to a suppressor. Is this an actual W terminal? It's the one in the 6 o'clock position; the one in the 3 o'clock position is empty. There's no winding ends on this alternator so the possible W terminal is my only option with this alternator.



Suppressor part number 0 290 800 036.



Alternator part number 034 903 016 and from a parts catalog 034 903 017 BX

[Nevadan]

Oil cooler bracket


Bracket with spring keeper.



View from the front



Tubing and hoses from the oil diverter valve. I'm not sure if my thermostat is working correctly and won't know until I get the engine under a load and hot enough to activate the "waxstat". If it doesn't work I'll just modify it so it's always in the open position as v8volvo suggested. I can just physically cover the cooler when it's real cold.

[Nevadan]

Cable routing of a cable off a 1990's Datsun or Nissan.



Custom brackets, circled in red. I sandwiched a piece of a Volvo cable spool to the IP bracket.



Sandwich from the side

[Nevadan]

I got this with the engine, had to chop it down quite a bit to get it to fit in there. I still not to make some deflectors to prevent rainwater from getting in.

[Nevadan]

Because of predrilling the tabs it went back in fairly easy.

[Nevadan]

The most impressive thing is, because of using such oversized wiring on everything I've put in, is how fast the starter turns over and how fast the glow plugs heat up, also the 70amp fan runs perfect and all that wiring stays cool. Despite all the hassle of putting that in it was well worth it.

The engine runs very smooth but I won't know for sure until I get it under a load. It smokes quite a bit when backing off from mid throttle but I'm not concerned about it yet.

I still need to install the waxstat and readjust the timing, I've just had a very hard time getting hot water to flow through the unit. You can see the mess of plumbing I have in place now. I do have a reducing elbow coming which should simplify the routing and get the hot water into the waxstat. I'll put the 1" T in the line from the head much closer to the head.