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  #11  
Old 08-31-2020, 12:17 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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So the top is the spare
the bottom one is the actual cluster in the red car
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2020, 12:38 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yes that does seem like intermittent electrical.

If it was the mechanical scenario (gauge remains zeroed out from startup until hit, then works fine afterward) (worse in cold ambient temperatures), that is caused by dried up lube in the needle mechanism. Requires careful removal of the needle, and a mini-drop of low viscosity oil (preferably w/ teflon, like Tri-Flow) into the axial mechanism. Think hypodermic.

The reverse-reading fuel gauge is from a mismatch between the sender and gauge types. Evidently Volvo changed methods, I forget which model year.

My fuel gauge never worked so have been zeroing out the trip odometer at each fill up and making sure to fill again before 500 miles. Works for me.
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2023, 01:05 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Swap confusion :) and non-working gauges in instrument cluster.

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Originally Posted by ngoma View Post

The reverse-reading fuel gauge is from a mismatch between the sender and gauge types. Evidently Volvo changed methods, I forget which model year.

My fuel gauge never worked so have been zeroing out the trip odometer at each fill up and making sure to fill again before 500 miles. Works for me.

As far as I know, the fuel tank (and probably its sender unit) in the red wagon is from the original 1986 gasoline Volvo
but the instrument cluster might have been one from the 740TD donor car that gave the engine,tranny etc to the red wagon?

In this case, solution could perhaps be simple: the current (td?) fuel gauge should probably get replaced with one using a fuel gauge from a gasoline car's instrument cluster.



If the current instrument cluster in the red wagon is not from a td car then it should have the `gasoline` version of a fuel gauge and matching the `gasoline` type sender unit. It is confusing enough so I always kept postponing figuring it out but it would be really nice to have a working fuel gauge.


Another possibility is that maybe the current instrument cluster is from the gasoline car (original to the gasoline chassis) but the in-tank fuel sender unit (and maybe even the fuel tank itself) came from the td donor? I really have no idea at this point. The fuel tank appears to be a plastic one and, as far as I know, that was a 1986- thing from Volvo. The donor td was a 1985sedan so I doubt the tank was transferred towards the 1986 wagon body.
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  #14  
Old 01-31-2023, 03:58 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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I remember not being sure about this back then, all those years ago, and I am even less sure now.

I do remember never taking anything apart on the fuel tank. So yes, the sender should be the original gas one (and the tank is also the one that was originally on that gas car).

I'm pretty sure there was something wrong with the gas gauge out of the original gas cluster from that car, thus I used the diesel gauge. I think the diesel gauge worked more reliably -- but worked backwards. Is that right?

If so, I think your idea of trying a known good gasoline gauge makes sense as the place to start.
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  #15  
Old 02-01-2023, 09:01 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Does this help? (topics)

Fuel Gauge Fluctuates or Fails to Work.
Diagnosis.
1. Fuel Sender Unit Failure.
Testing the Sending Unit Out of the Car.
Repair of Sender Unit.
2. Failed Fuel Gauge.
3. Poor Instrument Panel Contacts.
4. Failing Instrument Cluster PCB Solder Joints.


https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-9...augeFluctuates

Seems pretty comprehensive.
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  #16  
Old 02-02-2023, 10:52 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Fuel gauge and temperature gauge

Thank you very much for the replies.
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