#11
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I looked at a tutorial where I am pretty sure the guy said counter clockwise on the crank until the number on the dial stops rising and then back and see if it shows the same amount. Your way of doing it is way different so I will definitely check what the reading is with that. Today I noticed the car has started to run better and the smoke was just a thin haze when hot now so something is going on and it's being improved over time. |
#12
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I have driven a few D24 N/A 240s. Lots and lots of rowing the shifter for relatively meager benefits.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#13
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It turns out I accidentally put the wrong fuel in the car.
I looked at my purchases and saw that I had accidentally put biodiesel in the car. I guess the fuel nozzles looked very similar This could maybe be the cause for the bad running aswell? |
#14
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Not really, i think. Even regularly using Biodiesel would be alright except if you accidentally used the cheapo european *heating oil* by mistake. That was usually very low quality and highly acidic. IP seals hated it. Are you in Europe?
What did they call "biodiesel" btw? what percentage was it? b5,b20 or much higher such as b99? If clean and well filtered, they all are fine fuel into these cars. But not the heating oil ..idk if it was heating oil what you used. Last edited by RedArrow; 05-21-2022 at 09:16 PM. |
#15
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*High Quality* BD should run extremely similar to PetroD. Some notice it quiets the engine a tiny amount. Performance differences should be well within 10%. BD exhaust smells A LOT better.
BD *may* have a slightly higher gel point than winter grade PD but I think those low wintertime temperatures have passed in your area by this time of year. Not likely the cause of your problems, unless the BD was low quality or waterlogged. Warning: 100% BD can prematurely degrade non-BD compatible fuel system rubber (fuel hoses, older IP seals), causing them to soften and weep. OTOH, BD inherently has higher lubrication qualities than current ULSD, potentially increasing IP and injector lifespans (assuming IP seals are BD resistant). Previously you stated you thought eyeballing the camshaft timing was close enough and wouldn't cause performance problems. ("The cam timing could be a little bit wrong but I don't think that could effect the engine too much.") I don't have direct experience with this so will not overtly dispute that but--- Why would the factory make a special tool and additionally specify loading the adjustment 0.2mm to one side if eyeballing was close enough? Why should they complicate the process? Also: "Adjusted the valves to pretty much exactly to what the book says..." What is "pretty much exactly to what the book says?" Either followed the method and specs or not? If not, what did you do different? Did you measure clearance with the head fully torqued to the block or before? Hot or cold? Not meaning to run you around but there must be something amiss. We agree that it should be running better, not worse, after a new head, light rework, new headgasket, timing, etc., no? Let's verify and clarify where you are at now. Apparently the performance and driveability are continuing to incrementally improve? Acceptable smoke? Only remaining issue is low RPM stumble? Please clarify if I misread.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#16
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The pump timing was off so much still that it caused a lack of power and bad running. The white smoke, bucking and low power are all completely gone now. It feels great when the car works so good now. I tried the 0-100kmh acceleration after the tuneup and I got 16s 0-100! My previous best was 18.5 seconds with barely any fuel in the tank and this time I had just fueled it completely full. I have just checked my valves and all intake are within 0.25-0.15mm, exhaust 0.45-0.35mm cold. All the valves had to be adjusted after the rebuild. I currently have the pump fine adjustment at 0.90mm and the car works very well. I heard some people are running 1-1.05mm for the adjustment and I wonder if this is safe? Would the cold start device advance it to unsafe levels if risen to such a high level? I am interested in adjusting it higher because the current results have been very good. Also thanks to everyone who has bothered to answer this thread |
#17
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10 days ago you had set it to .92. That was still causing your recent performance problems? What did you set it to?
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#18
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Someone commented the right way to do it. I guess I must have done something wrong on the first time but it runs better than ever before right now. The diesel knocking sound came back when I adjusted it properly. I think my real number turned out to be 0.50 and it sounded like a gasoline engine like that.
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