De cluttering engine bay

[monkeh]

A few things I want to get shot of, just to eliminate vac lines, Making it simple to spot and work in, and make look tidy.
EGR, Boost pressure warning...
Can these be removed without ill effect?
I have a few sensors dotted around the wing area, I understand that the inlet manifold goes to a tee on the injection pump, from there it goes off to the bottom of the engine to the cold start coolant feed, that goes up to what I assume is the boost pressure sensor.
Can anyone give me advice on what needs to stay and what can be disconnected and removed?
I do have a boost gauge in the cab so rises in boost will be spotted.

[RedArrow]

Im glad you posted this thread. I had my engine washed recently and it felt good ... and looks good too. I mean, it looks just a little better. ...but....
Decluttering under the hood is something I definitely should do too. Especially the engine harness that needs to be properly remade from scratch. Grrrrrr!$×@+%_(;!!!!

About removing parts.
The egr is not necessary and actually an outdated crap according to many professional vw dieselers who regularly post here. Remove or at least disable it. Many get rid of the mechanical fan and rotor etc too.

Also the preheat hose between the airbox and the engine, could go. Entire ac system if not in use or unwanted, compressor, hoses, tubing, radiator and wiring etc. Many remove the entire aurbox but I left it intact, i dont like the look of cold air intakes and such. Always kept trying to keep my Volvo stock looking under the hood.
But often certain parts&accessories get in the way of regular maintenance or repairs of common d24 issues...or they are completely unnecessary to have (bad design, out of order and problematic parts such as waxstat coldstart device etc).
I have seen Volvos with the power steering disabled or removed just because it didnt work well or was leaking. And crowds gather nowdays around engine bays that have been "shaved". One day there will be a d24 or d24t seen fully shaved at a car show, freezing people by showing how old school the inline 6 vw looks, no sensors no computers, no real need of wires etc
Would be fun! Ideas on what to remove are always welcome. I have seen already several d24t cars running without rear and front belt cover but that is something I am against a lot, "because interference" there is a strong reason they have to be protected as much as possible. Not just anything can be removed because then you have to redesign plenty of stuff! And because stock d24s are very enjoyable already. )

Here I would like to ask about another "big thing" that I keep wondering about. It is the system of the d24t oil cooler where the coolant runs into a housing on the turbo side.
Many, including Tom B, a respected diesel rebuilder and collector/rebuilder/engine enthusiast, say or believe that it is absolutely meaningless , whatsmore, harmful to the d24t engine to have it. I think I read that somewhere and I think* it was him saying it.
Is there anyone here that suggests/prefers the oil cooler and its hoses etc removed from a d24t engine for safety reasons?

I always think that parts that arent exactly worn/broken/bad/malfunctioning etc should remain untouched until there is a real problem with them.
What does the d24t community think of its design and is there anyone out there who runs their d24ts without it?
Removal of the coolant hose running along and across the valve cover could add some clean look for sure.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by monkeh

A few things I want to get shot of, just to eliminate vac lines, Making it simple to spot and work in, and make look tidy.
EGR, Boost pressure warning...
Can these be removed without ill effect?
I have a few sensors dotted around the wing area, I understand that the inlet manifold goes to a tee on the injection pump, from there it goes off to the bottom of the engine to the cold start coolant feed, that goes up to what I assume is the boost pressure sensor.
Can anyone give me advice on what needs to stay and what can be disconnected and removed?
I do have a boost gauge in the cab so rises in boost will be spotted.

Removing the entire EGR system will tidy up the area quite nicely, with no ill effects. This includes the microswitches on the IP throttle lever, the vac lines running out along the firewall to the airbox, to the metal disk diaphragm (and can remove that itself) on the opposite side, to the heater hose/drain valve under the vacuum pump.

Do keep the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake manifold to the ip. Mine tees to the instrument panel boost gauge, where does yours tee to?

The other best tidying up I did was to remove the EGR metal piping that runs between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Removed all that at its flanges and installed simple blockoff plates in their place. Gave much better access. That area was constantly greasy dirty, solved that by replacing the turbo/intake manifold interconnect hose, 1-7/8" (48mm) silicone radiator hose, now it stays clean.

The boost warning never worked on any of my cars so I suppose you don't really need it.

[monkeh]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Removing the entire EGR system will tidy up the area quite nicely, with no ill effects. This includes the microswitches on the IP throttle lever, the vac lines running out along the firewall to the airbox, to the metal disk diaphragm (and can remove that itself) on the opposite side, to the heater hose/drain valve under the vacuum pump.

Do keep the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake manifold to the ip. Mine tees to the instrument panel boost gauge, where does yours tee to?

The other best tidying up I did was to remove the EGR metal piping that runs between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Removed all that at its flanges and installed simple blockoff plates in their place. Gave much better access. That area was constantly greasy dirty, solved that by replacing the turbo/intake manifold interconnect hose, 1-7/8" (48mm) silicone radiator hose, now it stays clean.

The boost warning never worked on any of my cars so I suppose you don't really need it.

Thankfully, there is a 2 port banjo on the injection pump so that'll be the feed for the boost gauge, I saved my last 760's intake manifold intermediate piece so that's been lined up to fit there.
Had a few minutes having a pull away, removed the egr vac lines, there isn't any warm air feed to the air box, but I'm going to fit a k and n cone type filter
I also saved the exhaust manifold, but I may just cut off the flex pipe and get the flange welded up.
I have to figure out the cruise control system as that doesn't work. Suspect it may be the small vac pump itself. I do want to get that working.
There are 2 vac lines that go from the vac supply down to what look like a water temperature sensor underneath the vac pump, what's that things purpose? I have a working cold start system, It looked like that might me related as it goes up to the wax motor?.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by monkeh

I have to figure out the cruise control system as that doesn't work. Suspect it may be the small vac pump itself. I do want to get that working.

9 times out of 10 it's the small o-ring deteriorated in the brake pedal air switch. Why not check that first? Hook up your mityvac to the small hose that runs to the brake pedal air switch and see if it holds a vacuum until you step on the pedal.

Originally Posted by monkeh

I'm going to fit a k and n cone type filter

There's controversy on that. Many say the filtration is not that great and has ruined their engine in a short time. I think there is an efficiency and power hit because the stock airbox has a cold ram air system built in. At speed cold air from in front of the radiator, A/C condenser is rammed into the airbox thru the venturi horn. With a cone filter in the engine bay it's pulling in hot underhood air, less dense, less oxygen, etc.

[monkeh]

I'll check that O ring, somehow... I wondered why there was a vac hose disappearing into the bulkhead.

As for the K&N, I run a K&N panel filter on my OM642 300c, have done for a few years with a yearly oiling, twice if needs be.
I notice stock airbox has a venture horn on the inside of the engine bay as well as the typical intake on the wing... All I want is a bit of turbo noise. The sound of these sucking in small countries is why I choose this car over my 300c! I suppose a stock box modification may be in order.