Quote:
Originally Posted by ukvolvo
I keep been told to mark up and go for it by volvo specialists here, but that will not guarantee a correct factory set up to start improving from.
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That is bad and dangerous advice, and you are right to not accept it.
It's the same philosophy that has resulted in so many of these engines being destroyed by "Volvo specialists" over the decades
, who then blame the failure on the engine rather on themselves for deliberately sabotaging it despite having the proper instructions right in front of them. Sad and irritating to hear people still repeating the old misinformation even now -- at one time in the past threatening the assets and finances and safety of regular folks who owned these cars as their main transportation, and today in reference to an antique car of which very few remain.
Anyway glad to hear that you dismissed those recommendations.
Assembling the full set of factory-version tools is no small task, requiring significant time and money, unless you are lucky enough to encounter a Volvo dealer or independent shop wishing to offload its full set, or find them piece by piece (or even every now and then all together) on ebay. You can try those methods, but they're often not out there at the exact moment you need them.
However, as ngoma alluded, there are good substitutes for most or all of the factory tools at very low cost, if you are willing to use a little creativity and work smart. Thanks to the fact that these are really Audi engines not Volvo engines, the Volvo-specified tools can often be subbed with much more common Audi/VW equivalents, IF you know what you're looking for and don't get tripped up by loosely worded advertisements for tools that might not work. (Main key there is understanding that the 4-cylinder versions of the engines use their own different equipment/procedures and are not compatible. The stuff you need will be called out for the FIVE CYLINDER 2.0L, 2.4L, 2.5L Audi/VW diesel and TDI engines, not the fours.)
But stuff that works is out there cheap, and better yet, many of those substitutes should be even more easily found on your side of the pond where the VW/Audi relatives of the engines are extremely common.
Here are some of the known simple recipes:
9995187 crankshaft counterhold: you can use a commonly found version for a 2.5L TDI 5cylinder as found in Audi cars and VW Transporter trucks. It requires a very slight modification that you can accomplish with an angle grinder in about five minutes, to create a second open section opposite the existing one (D24T crank pulley has two locking lugs to engage with the tool where as the 2.5TDI has only one). See discussion posts and ebay links on page 3 of this thread from member jetfiremuck who has done this. The tool will cost you just a few pounds.
https://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=2116&page=3
9995188 wrench extension: you can make one by welding a 27mm socket onto the end of a piece of flat steel, and on the other end adding something to attach a torque wrench to (such as a large nut to accept another socket). The length of the piece of flat steel and the spacing from the wrench attachment to the welded socket would be critical, so if you plan to make one, tell us and someone will measure the correct distance for you. You could also get away without this tool
IF YOU HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH THAT READS UP TO 350 FT-LB to use directly on the front crankshaft bolt. If not, you need to obtain or make the tool. There is probably also a cheap Audi version of this out there as well, more research required but probably not hard to find if you can find some service literature for a 2.5TDI Audi/VW engine which will undoubtedly call out a special tool number.
Dial indicator and holder and rod (9995194), and locking plate for back of camshaft (9995190): as ngoma noted, these are easily substituted. Both common on ebay for very cheap.
These are the only two tools where the ubiquitous 4 cylinder versions work just fine, though you will need to remove the vac pump for space using the 4cyl version of the dial indicator setup (easy to do). Slight modification of the 4cyl cam locking plate sometimes required for clearance to the two rear valve cover studs, 15 seconds with a bench grinder.
Also the 5190 plate appears to be included in that 23GBP ebay tool set linked in the other thread mentioned earlier. Here it is again:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-2-4-2-5-...8AAOSwnHBdHx6C
You could buy that tool set, and then also another commonly seen cheap set intended for the 4cyl engines, and between the two of them you would have 90% of what you need (along with a bunch of stuff that you don't need but oh well).
D24 greenbooks are online. Will look for links, we should have one stickied anyway. Try looking for mirrors of the old k-jet.org as a place to start.
The biggest advice of all: don't let lack of the tools either cause you to become discouraged and decide not do the timing belt job, OR cause you to do it but attempt to cut corners or work without the right equipment/info. Everything you need is out there, cheap, and easy to get if you know where and how to look.
