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Old 01-31-2023, 04:03 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Not familiar with any of those. I have heard the modern digital (strain gauge based) tq wrenches are a big step forward in quality from old clicker type. Supposedly easier to use, more consistent/accurate/reliable, and far less likely to drift out of adjustment with time/use and require recalibration. From what I hear there are many of them that are very good despite costing much less than the mechanical ones used to. But I am sure there are still good ones and bad ones out there like anything else.

It's also nice to be able to see a reading of the torque value so that you know when you're getting close and I think some of the digital ones provide you that. That is why I still only use my old beam-and-pointer type torque wrenches, even today. I think they are still considered the most accurate but are certainly the least comfortable to use.

I tried to torque the crank bolt on a D24T that was not in the car once. First I attempted it with the engine on a stand and someone trying to hold it -- of course that did not work at all and the engine nearly crashed to the floor. Then, as far as I remember, I hung the engine with a chain from a hoist, lowered it onto a pallet on the floor, and carefully built a system using supports (wood, jackstands, etc) to stabilize it in position, then used ratchet straps to lock it all down so it couldn't move. Even then it was very difficult to get it to stay in place for the final torque. The whole pallet wanted to tip up off the ground. Probably could have set some more weight on the edge of it to help hold it down. But it worked out, just took a lot of messing around and time.

The safest way is with the engine in the car, but that's not always practical I suppose.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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