The valve adjustment tools look right. For the shims, see if there is a good foreign parts place near you, or a foreign auto repair shop. Many places will allow you to rent a whole kit from them for a fairly cheap daily rate, and then just buy from them the shims that you use out of the kit. I have the factory Volvo diesel valve adjustment kit that I may consider renting out if you really run out of luck. But if you just want individual shims, you should be able to find them at places like autohausaz.com
You don't need that weird looking bent wrench. The pump timing is not adjusted by moving the pump on a D24T. It is better to adjust it by moving the rear sprocket independently of the cam. Even if you did want to move the pump, all the bolts are easily accessible with regular wrenches. I like my flex-head ratcheting gear wrenches for this kind of work but you can get by just fine with regular tools.
The auction for the collection of diesel tools doesn't really have anything you need either. The cam locking plate is something you need to have but you can get that independently. The pump locking pin is completely unnecessary -- it only gets in the way, and even if you did want to use it, the VW style one is too long to fit between the pump sprocket and the firewall in a Volvo installation. I have the official Volvo tool, which is similar but has a more stubby end on it.... but I have never used it since it is easier without. Part of the timing procedure involves being able to rotate the rear cam and pump pulleys independent of the rest of the engine (with the rear cam bolt loose to allow this movement). If there is a locking pin in there, well..... the pump sprocket isn't going to be able to move.
The real tools you need are the following:
--Locking plate for the back of the cam for setting cam timing
--Dial indicator and holder (VW one works but involves removing the vacuum pump for use; Volvo/Audi one has a longer holder and pin to allow you to time the motor without removing the vac pump, since it places the dial indicator further from the IP where it does not interfere with the VP)
--Counterhold tool for breaking loose the bolts that hold on the front and rear cam sprockets, and for when you have to tighten the bolts back up during reassembly. You CANNOT get by without this. The Volvo tool # is 9995199 and they are still available through Rotunda Tools for only about $40, or through your Volvo dealer for a little more. Alternately, a universal "sprocket buster" tool may work fine too. I have used one designed for VW TDIs and it more or less worked just as well as the proper Volvo one. The one I have used is made by Metalnerd and is shown on this page:
http://www.metalnerd.com/cat03.htm I have gotten into the habit of using this tool on the front sprocket lately and the Volvo factory 5199 tool on the rear one, but either will work for both, as well as for other engines where this is necessary.
--Crankshaft counterhold tool, Volvo P/N 9995187 or 5188 I forget which. This is another one that you cannot do without. It keeps the crank from rotating as you loosen and then retorque the center crank bolt, which you have to remove to get the belt off. This bolt is TIGHT. The torque spec is over 400 ft-lbs. It will require a massive cheater bar to get it off, and an equally massive cheater bar to achieve sufficient torque when reinstalling it after replacing the belt. I just did this over the weekend on a D24T that was out of a car, strapped to a pallet... torquing the bolt put so much rotational force on the assembly that the whole thing nearly flipped right over, pallet and all. Insufficient torque will mean the crank sprocket will work its way off and the engine will skip time... and that means big damage and big bucks. I can't imagine doing this job without this tool... I can see no way you could do it properly without hurting yourself or the car or both. Also still available fairly cheaply through Rotunda and Volvo, or someone on here (including me) will have one that you can borrow if you want to pay shipping and leave a deposit.
That's it. It's not a terribly difficult job. Check the condition of your water pump and idler bearings when you are in there -- you may at least need a new water pump seal, since the O-ring gets disturbed when you replace the belt, and the idler may need replaced as well. That requires another special tool (a puller) or some kind of cagey method to get it out. You can use a slide hammer if the engine is out of the car... but I assume yours won't be. If you need to replace your water pump, be sure to use a good quality one ... that means NOT a GMB pump. Bosch pumps are good quality and are available through RockAuto.com. The idler bearings, should you need one, are widely available since they are the same ones used on 5-cylinder VW Eurovan engines which are relatively recent and commonplace.