Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma
Ball-end long allen wrench (5? or 6mm?) is strongly suggested to remove the IP cover screws.
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I think it was a 5mm. The ball end does make the job much easier.
You may as well get a complete seal kit, Bosch part # DGK-121, rather than buying the seals individually. It doesn't cost much. That way you are sure to have a selection of seals to choose the right one, and if you need to replace other seals in the future, you have them already on the shelf.
The trickiest part of this job, when working on a turbo pump, is getting the whole upper assembly to sit back down onto the lower pump body. The upper assembly has a jumble of appendages sticking down out of it that need to fit properly into the bottom section, and they tend to want to jam on bits below when installing. One trick we tried that might help, was lightly pressurizing the charge air inlet nipple on top of the boost enrichment (aneroid) device. This depresses the aneroid diaphragm and allows the lever that the aneroid pin acts against to be backed off into a position where it's easier to slip down into the pump body without hitting on the top of the main governor lever.
And to reiterate the above -- removing the fuel ("smoke") screw first and installing it last is a key step, since it will hit things on the way down during reinstall if it is not removed. Mark its position carefully! We found that noting/marking the original orientation and then turning it *inward* until its stop while counting the fractions of a turn it took to get there was easier than counting the number of turns to remove it.
You may also have to remove the low idle stop screw to get access to one of the pump top cover screws -- if so, remember to make marks and count turns with it as well so it goes back together in the same place.
If any dirt does get into the pump, flush with clean fuel and then remove with a cleaned-off suction hose from a fluid evacuator tool. Carefully wipe clean the mating surfaces of the pump body and the upper cover and, as ngoma mentioned, use a new top seal. (It's the big round-looking one with nubs, not the thicker formed rubber one that is also in the kit.) Then, assemble the pump with the main cavity as full of fuel as you can get it without having it spill out everywhere during installation, to make the system easier to bleed when you are starting it. Once everything is together, be sure to wash off any fuel that leaked or spilled onto the heater hoses down near the fuel filter head. If they show signs of deterioration from contact with fuel (swelling, bulging, flaring), replace them.
It's a finicky job, but not hard. If you work slowly, make your marks carefully and get everything back together in the same place, the car will start up and run just as it did before, and you will smile.
