ngoma,
I'll try. I won't be back there until next weekend. Looking at the Green book those screws/bolts should only be torqued at ~15 ft/lbs. Granted I don't know how tight they
really are, plus there is likely a bond of rust. I did get a ratchet on the 2:00 bolt and when I "turned" it the engine turned. The bolt felt pretty darn tight. So now I am thinking that at least there is one bolt that is a lot tighter than ~15 ft/lbs! I think my small impact driver could help with that one.
The large crank bolt, is it clamping both the harmonic damper and the crank timing belt gear onto the crank snout? The 4 6mm inhex bolts, they are screwed into the crank timing belt gear and also clamping the harmonic balancer to the crank timing belt gear?
It looks like if I removed the front crank bolt it would give me more room inside the harmonic balancer to work, and fit tools. The Green book says to first remove the 27mm bolt and then the 4 inhex bolts. If I did this would the crank timing belt gear become loose or fall off the crank? Or is there like a woodruff key on the crank snout and the timing gear to keep it all together? I don't want to disturb engine timing as I am not replacing the timing belt yet. I just want get to the 4 inhex bolts removable per preparation. Though replacing the timing belt is something I will do soon.
Here is the small parts list so far:
- Front timing belt
- Water pump o-ring
- Timing belt idler pulley
- Front crankshaft oil seal
- 4 inhex bolts (stainless steel; M8x1.25; 6mm Allen head)
- Raybestos MK1917 brake master cylinder rebuild kit (maybe?)
- Saginaw power steering pump rebuild kit
- Power steering pump bracket bushing (is 1 or 2 needed?)
- Power steering return hose
- Air conditioning, alternator, and power steering/fan belts
- Fan switch (and grommet)