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Old 11-11-2022, 12:14 AM
coconup coconup is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Germany
Vehicle: VW LT
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
One injector had a bad spray pattern? The rest were OK? Correct POP? What about drips or moisture when held 10 sec. at just under POP?
Yes they all pop at the right pressure and only one of them slightly dripped when held at close-to-pop-pressure. Two new injectors are on their way already since they are under warranty, although admittedly I lost a bit of confidence in the seller.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
There are many schools of thought for piston/ring/cylinder break-in, some even adding sink scouring powder to hasten ring seat. I like the "Run it hard out of the gate, under load, varying RPMs, up and down through the RPM range, quick accelerations and decelerations."

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Great, thanks for the link. I take it from both you and @v8volvo that the oil I'm using should not matter? I can still drain it and replace it with mineral oil, but also not if it won't make a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
One of the best methods to determine if air-intrusion is the problem is to temporarily install a low-pressure fuel pump just upstream of the main filter. Run it that way and see if the problem disappears.
Noted, thank you (once again) for the tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
Lastly: Air intrusion itself can cause hard starting. If bad enough (usually bad IP mainshaft seal paired with clogged fuel filter), it can cause problems at idle and off-idle.
Does this mean that air intrusion alone would not have an impact on idle performance? I currently see quite a lot of air bubbles being sucked in and idle is very rough (the engine jumps around and struggles to keep up when idling). I thought the bubbles would explain it, but are you saying there must be more to it?
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