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Old 08-07-2013, 08:54 AM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Makes sense to me to run with the thermostat for most effective flushing of the rad, but you're going to replace the rad anyway, right? Either way shouldn't hurt, might not want to run it that way too long but in summer weather probably OK for a little while.

Good to know there is a freeze plug that can fit in that hole -- I had wondered the same thing. Much nicer solution than a rubber plug!

On hoses -- the lower hose is still pretty readily available. IMC sells good-quality Mackay hoses, both upper and lower, so any IMC reseller should be able to get those for you. Here is one such reseller that offers great prices -- usually within a few cents of IMC wholesale shop cost when I have looked:

Upper hose part # is 1257347 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257347
Lower hose part # 1257992 https://www.gowestyautoparts.com/OEM...search=1257992

Unfortunately the rad hoses are the only ones available aftermarket for D24 and D24T, as far as I have seen. The smaller dia. hose from the expansion tank to the cold tank of the rad is the same as used on gasser and is also available, but heater hoses are from Volvo only. Not difficult to fabricate from scratch, though. Here was one setup that worked well: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=608

For blocking off the oil cooler hose connection on the back of the head, theoretically would be possible to do the same thing as you did in the block if you could get enough access. D24 engines, which don't have the oil cooler and attendant hoses, have a small freeze plug installed where the (removable) hose connection is mounted on a D24T. You could remove the hose barb and have someone fill it up with weld, or try to get a freeze plug in, or use a rubber hose block-off cap -- but those caps never seem to last very long, being designed I think as a cheap temporary solution for desperate people with leaking heater cores... All the ones I have seen installed in that location have cracked and burst within a few months, don't know if it's from the high heat exposure or just junk material. Maybe you can find a good-quality one meant for permanent installation, but if you can avoid using one at all, that seems like it might be the best setup. Will be interested to hear what you are able to figure out...
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