Bosch Duratherm (or spelled Duraterm?)
80010 is the best glowplug for these.
It is hard to do only for the very first time, even with good tea served
but later many dieselbrickers manage relatively quickly with all 6... only after `learning` what exact kind of (btw simple) tools to have.
A few small but important things come to my mind.
Be careful to not use too much of the antiseize on the glowplug threads.
Do not overtighten the glowplugs into the head.
Maybe redo the insulation on the old buss bars that connect the plugs.
Try to not disturb the fuel hard lines at all.
Maybe use new nuts for the glowplugs.
Don`t plug the holes with anything as you may forget it in the glowplug holes or it could fall in.
TEST the plugs before installing them, they should `light up` within 5-7seconds and glow completely red within 9secs at the max esp in UK weather
.
Use any kind of random two pieces of wires you may find (proper gauge) and test your new glowplugs away from the car on any 12v battery, one by one. Nothing is worse than doing stuff twice due to a small mistake or a factory failure in a plug. The whole World is made in Ch.na.
Prepare as many different types, sizes, and shapes of 8mm wrenches and various sockets for the job to make it `easy` (easier).
Some flexy etc tricky wrench gadgets make it easy. I recall sizes of 10, 11 and 12 mm tools.
Keep the buss bar on the rearest glowplug but do loosen the outer nut on it first. Use loose buss bar to fish the #6 glowplug out and through.
Good time to check the wiring that goes to the rear of the head, as well. On my engines it was usually a brown wire. It monitors temps over there and triggers a fulltime glow if it thinks the engine isnt warm enough. Not so good for the glowplug system if it slippes off. On some cars, this wire had slipped off from that pin on the rear of the cyl head, so it is a good idea to check it... especially because you will be tinkering near there anyway.. for quite some time