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Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Injection pump isn't timed per the book method judging by its position relative to the bracket (too close to the head if that makes sense...I think I've seen v8volvo mention that)
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Best method we have arrived at is not the greenbook method, but rather to leave the IP tightened in a neutral position (lined up with the mark on the bracket seems to work fine) with the injector lines relaxed/retightened, and adjust the timing by rotating the rear camshaft pulley on the camshaft. Tighten the pulley, rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt) forward to TDC again, check the dial indicator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Had a receipt for injection pump rebuild and reinstall for $2000 in the glovebox.
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Lucky!
Still has the yellow paint on the adjustment screws? Who was the rebuild shop?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Changed oil filter to Mann made in Germany from fram and very slightly overfilled (like barely above the cross-hatch on the stick, nothing radical) with Delo 40LE fully synthetic 5w-40.
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Full synthetic oil really helps these. Some of us overfill to improve an extended oil pressure lamp condition at startup. The oil pickup tube has a long horizontal run and if its o-ring is losing its seal the oil can drain back out of the pickup tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Changed the glow plugs with Bosch durathherms. Cleaned the treads. What a pita to change the #6.
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Yes GP #6 is never easy, worse when the IP is positioned overly close to the head, as yours is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Removed vac pump...
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Make sure you reinstalled the actuator rod back in the correct orientation. Backwards can cause excessive wear on the cam.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Will need to start cold tomorrow to see if it starts right up cold with 6/6 instead of 3.5/6.
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What was the result?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Glow relay stuck on. How to repair or get it working right for a dual relay '83 265 diesel or buy new.
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I'd be temped to upgrade to the newer relay. Revised circuitry allows for better warm starts, and afterglow. For now you could pop the cover and see what's up inside.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Need an engine harness...
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Probably not affordable, check Dave Barton. They are not so complex; you could likely redo the deteriorated portions in a few hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
What are the best brand water pumps?
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Most all available are the stamped steel impeller type. Not sure we have arrived at a "best" pick. Someone recently planned to send some used OE out for rebuild and testing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Would like a block heater.
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Easy but probably not necessary (West coast?) with good compression/battery/starter/GPs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Belts slip a little and starts to run a little warm even in winter towing up hill.
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What altitude? Could the radiator have a blockage? Does running the heater help? Some drop down a gear (higher revs/same MPH) to control overheat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridgewagon
Headgasket possibly failing? Can you verify these with dye, leak down, coolant pressure test and smog (3-gas analyzer) on coolant reservoir like a normal gas engine?
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Checks presence of hydrocarbons, correct? Should work. Check for radiator hoses getting hard too early upon startup (cap tightened). Also check for small bubbles emerging into the coolant reservoir (cap off). The leaky headgaskets I have seen leak oil and coolant out onto the side of the block, just under/behind the vacuum pump.