[Fridgewagon]

Ok, got out the dial indicator and double checked the crank pulley bolt was super tight. Timing is at euro spec, but not alarmingly off. Injection pump isn't timed per the book method judging by its position relative to the bracket (too close to the head if that makes sense...I think I've seen v8volvo mention that)

Let the heavy duty crane heat gun blow into the intake for several minutes (since I know I have at least two dead glow plugs after disconnecting the bus bar) and it lit right off in a snap. I didn't want to burn up my starter or wear the motor out on a nice 30 degree day.

Swapped out the Fram fuel filter for a Bosch filled to the brim with fresh Lubro-moly diesel purge. That sure turned the volume down (general engine racket ) and made the test drive a lot snappier? Any other issues to be alarmed with there?

Block doesn't look to be painted green, rebuilt? If rebuilt i sure hope they did a good job. It runs real nice and quick. Has fresh cooling hoses oe with American clamps and a bypassed engine harness, somi wouldn't be shocked if it's been out.

Car is from Sacramento river valley ca so the car has zero rust, but the engine doesn't leak and the timing and cam cover has rut spots, not much evidence of blowby out the crankcase vent hose. Block is all greasy and nasty around the injection pump. Had a receipt for injection pump rebuild and reinstall for $2000 in the glovebox.

Hot starts fine with no glow plugs with the coolant temp ~100f, but "warm engine", so probably a little easier warm start than just a hot summer day. Takes maybe just a little longer when slightly warm if you don't glow it manually (my only choice since my relay is stuck on at the moment, but his is a second car and mostly parked until dialed in)

Adjusted the valves, nothing alarmingly out. Looked at timing belts and they look like fairly recent contis, but will change at 50k interval. Changed oil filter to Mann made in Germany from fram and very slightly overfilled (like barely above the cross-hatch on the stick, nothing radical) with Delo 40LE fully synthetic 5w-40. Old oil was fairly typical of a diesel IMO...still slippery, stinks like crayons, but a little sooty. Replaced air filter, flesh fluids and a bath in kerosene and the steam cleaner at the heavy equip hot wash. Had to turn the pressure and heat down to keep it "gentle".

Changed the glow plugs with Bosch durathherms. Cleaned the treads. What a pita to change the #6. Got it out carefully and bled a little. Removed vac pump, slathered new glow threads in a dab of anti-seize and wiped with microfiber. Will need to start cold tomorrow to see if it starts right up cold with 6/6 instead of 3.5/6.

Glow relay stuck on. How to repair or get it working right for a dual relay '83 265 diesel or buy new. Wiring diagram?

Need an engine harness and some special tools. Want to rebuild the head and get a good look at it and give it a good refresh. Tbelt near interval
What are the best brand water pumps?

Would like a block heater.
Would like to add the Volvo (gas engine) water to oil heat exchanger with D24T adapter.
Would like to add head studs.

Belts slip a little and starts to run a little warm even in winter towing up hill. Custom radiator?
Add larger 700 clutched cooling fan with a good pusher fan with custom aground with larger opening?

Headgasket possibly failing? Can you verify these with dye, leak down, coolant pressure test and smog (3-gas analyzer) on coolant reservoir like a normal gas engine?

I think the reason the 2 series get the small fan is so the shroud/fan doesn't interfere with the auto trans cooling lines with the more slanted motor. Since mine is a stick that isn't really an issue.
It looks like 2 and 7 top radiator hose are different and radiator is different maybe? I remember radiator being the same in years past.