[v8volvo]

Something is not right with your measurement technique based on those numbers. 350# is pretty low, and 110 would be a dead skip on that cylinder. If it ran well, and started decently, then these readings probably can't be correct.

Are you sure you're setting up the tester correctly and getting it all sealed up? Having a few injectors still in can also affect your results since it slows down cranking speed and could affect different cylinders irregularly.

The best tool I have found for pulling injectors is a Craftsman 1-1/16" socket, the US size gives a slightly looser fit on the injector than the correct 27mm size, and it has thin enough walls to not foul up on the side of the cylinder head, enabling it to get all the way down on the injector. You need one with deep enough hex reliefs to get around the injector spill nipples, which not all tools have.

For injectors that give you a struggle to get loose, remember to pull on the wrench from the passenger side or the front of the car, don't pull towards the outside of the head on the driver's side or you can break the head at the injector boss. If access is the issue on #5 and #6, sometimes you can slip the socket on by itself then get a wobble-end extension into it good enough to engage. Or you can temporarily or permanently move the pump out of the way, as you were discussing elsewhere.

Getting heatshields out, best way is to get all injectors removed then spin the engine on the starter and let compression blow them out. (Protect for fuel leakage from the IP injector unions while doing this.) You can give the shields a few gentle taps using a blunt drift or socket extension beforehand to shock them loose beforehand too, to ensure they fly out. Or, can put in a screw that's the right size for the opening and yank the shields out with a slide hammer, more work but usually does the job. Don't use a pick or anything else that can break off inside, because it will.

Curious, why are you planning to pull the head?