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Old 02-18-2014, 02:12 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 745 TurboGreasel View Post
That doesn't include the cost of removing and replacing the pump on the car, I do that part myself, and forget not everyone does.
It's not too hard to set the CS system up on the car; you don't really have to have it done on the bench. Almost none of the pump rebuilders are able to actually do that properly anymore at any rate. I've had to set it in more than one case where the CS cable broke and all the bits at the end were lost, not that tricky, you just have to make sure to do the final setting on a hot, running motor so that you know you have reached full extension of the plunger, and make sure it backs all the way off to zero advance under those circumstances and the advance position and idle speed when cold are within reason. I usually also like to set it so that the ball stud's well backed away from the roller cage when warm, but the lever stop is placed where there's still a fingernail's width of clearance between the lever and the tab. Keeping a little bit of return spring tension on the cable when the system is in "warm" position, rather than letting the lever hit the stop and the cable go fully slack, seems to make life easier on the cable since it doesn't let it wag around so much.

I've also tweaked that setting in a few cases where the t-stat isn't completely dead, but is dying and doesn't fully back off the advance anymore -- you can get a little more life out of them by changing the adjustment a bit, since the t-stat usually dies a gradual death where the displacement of the plunger slowly falls off over time. During the time before it quits moving altogether you can still get some use out of it. Unless the weather's really cold you don't generally need the full-on effect anyway, the system still is effective even if its total travel is reduced a bit.

However, this all doesn't change the fact that there is no reason to mess with it except for in a specific case... just replacing the t-stat should not require any adjustment (except sometimes I move the stop back a bit for the reasons above). The whole system shouldn't be touched with anything except for a flathead screwdriver unless it's by a person who knows exactly what they are trying to do and why.

Overall, though, I would trust someone who had never worked on this stuff before to be able to set the CS device adequately from scratch, after disturbing that setting, much more readily than I would trust them to correctly remove and reinstall the IP, plus trusting an injection shop that hasn't seen this setup in 15 years to get the cold start set up right.
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