You probably know how long this takes! I hope to have all the wiring done in 1-2 days and get the engine in place, then I'll start on the cooling system and piecing together hoses to make everything fit.

Is this worth mentioning here?

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/i...Anull%7D%22%7D

Starter and bell housin modification
 

So.....there was a thread on another site 8-9 years ago that said the 2.0TD swap into a QSW was easy. I'm here to tell you it's not a simple "take out the old engine and put in the diesel". There's a lot of "LITTLE" things that take a long time to do.

Example: The TD starter is much bigger than the gasser and although it fits properly in the block it doesn't fit correctly in the bell housing and a portion of the starter rubs against the flywheel. I bolted the starter up and tried to turn the engine over by hand and it wouldn't budge.

Before modification, starter rubbing on bell housing cast aluminum ridges and on flywheel.
https://dz2bcg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

After modification, ridges ground off with a Dremel tool that barely fit in there. I was dreading having to pull the engine back out.
https://dz2ecg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Modification to the starter, about 1/4 inch ground off the face where it was rubbing on the flywheel.
https://dz2dcg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Comparison of gas starter vs diesel.
https://dz2ocg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Junction boxes for power supply to engine bay
 

After completing the battery cable routing into the engine bay I added two junction boxes, from the 1998-2004 VW's, one to power the original supply at the fuse/relay box under the dash along with the glow plug solenoid and then route to another box on the driver's side to power the 70 amp fan relay and a headlight relay I'll install later.

First junction box on the passenger side firewall with the glowplug solenoid in place.
https://dz2ncg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Second box on the driver's fenderwell to power the fan relays. Also a wire from the original harness which powered the fans and I'm not sure what else.
https://fp3rlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

70 amp Audi cooling fan
 

I mated a 70 amp Audi fan to the original QSW fan shroud, cut, filed, riveted, bolted, riveted, bolted, etc. I think this fan could move the car on flat ground if the radiator wasn't in front of it.
https://fp3tlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

IP sprocket access behind the engine.
 

There's plenty of space behind the head, injection pump and vacuum pump; much different than the 2.4 in the Volvo. Of course that's where the battery was sitting also.
https://fp3slq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Snub nose engine mount bracket modificaitoin
 

I don't fully understand why the snub nose mount didn't line up properly, probably because I changed it from the stock QSW to the one off the Audi 200, I just thought they would be in the same final location on the body/grill. Had to cut and relocate the mounting nuts, will fill in the holes later.

https://fp3nlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Exhaust downpipe
 

I got very lucky in finding a piece of exhaust pipe off a 2014 (or so) VW TDI wagon that had the correct bend to fit the stub from the manifold down to the pipe under the body. It required on cut and reweld to get the angle correct. I had to tack it in place to keep the proper alignment. The union/clamp from the VW fit perfectly over the existing QSW pipe.

Completed pipe with a tab welded on (which took over an hour to get it correctly located. These custom tabs and brackets take WAY more time than I thought) to secure that part to the original support off the transmission.
https://fp3zlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

In place, tab support visible.
https://fp3olq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Bolted in, tucked up tight with plenty of ground clearance.
https://fp3plq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Radiator bracket modification
 

I had to move the radiator forward about an inch to inch and a half so the main lower support bracket had to be extended and a new side mount made. I'll say it again....these brackets take so much longer than I thought. If you're off 1-2 degrees on alignment it won't fit.

https://fz3rlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Time-Serts installed in starter
 

Because of the misfit between the starter, flywheel and bell housing I messed up the threads on the starter. I installed some M12 X 1.75 Time Serts to solve the problem. If you have never used these they work perfectly, if you have used them you know how good they are. They're expensive but they SOLVE the problem. It's hard to see in the picture but the new threaded holes are the insert that replaces the bad threads.

https://fz3qlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Remaining items:
Finish the cooling system hose routing.
Secure the radiator.
Verify the fans come on at the correct time/temperature.
Secure the oil cooler and install hoses.

And the one thing I haven't figured out yet: CONNECT THE THROTTLE CABLE. As the engine bay has become more crowded I'm not sure how I'm going to do this. On these 2.0 and 2.4 engines the IP requires the throttle pull form the front and my short cable pulls from the back, from the firewall. I've scavenged a few junkyard cables and pulleys but am not sure how it's going to work. I think I need to find the throttle connection off a 2.4. I'm going to look at my friend's 2.4 tomorrow and see if it will work.

Then....
Install the grill
And see how the gearing works with the diesel instead of the gas.
Can't wait!!


Another unknown is how to get the tachometer to work. The original tach must have been wired to something in the distributor. I don't think there's a "W" terminal on the distributor I took off the Audi 200.

For the Tach
 

What alternator do you have?

Could this work?

Add "W" terminal wire to Bosch/Valeo serp-belt TDI alternator

Then this?

Gas Tacho / Revcounter Conversion to Diesel W terminal

Throttle cable
 

When I was attempting to rebuild throttle spools I came across some different versions of the bracketry that had different clocking for the arm that holds the cables. I'll see if I can post some photos, maybe one could work for you.

The alternator is out of a 1992 or 1995 Audi 200, the label is faded but I believe it's a 110 amp unit. I'll take a look at it this weekend and see if there's the winding ends sticking out of the case.

That second link is beyond my current electrical wiring ability! I'm not even sure if the circuit board is in the alternator or instrument cluster.

Much appreciated if you can post some photo's. I'm going to look at my friends D24T today and see how the stock setup on that engine is mounted.

I did pull a very long throttle cable off a wrecking yard car, an older Nissan, that I may be able to loop in the engine bay to pull from the front.

I dont mind removing a throttle spool unit from a d24t to take pictures for you if that helps.
Here's a few from some d24 nonturbo engines, the one with the smallest top is a very early version; the other too are nearly identical to each other, only slightly different. LMK if you need measurements.

Some more d24 throttle spool picts

These photos should help clarify the different accelerator cable clocking orientations:

First one is a D24T/M46 in a 740, no cruise control, no auto kickdown cable.
Attachment 1706
You can see the accel cable enters at approx. 2 o'clock position (when viewed from the front). Seems like this could work for you?

Second one (shown placed alongside, in approximately correct orientation) with auto kickdown, and cruise control. Guessing from a D24T 740 w/AT and CC.
Attachment 1707
Here the accel cable enters at roughly 6 o'clock position (when viewed from the front), must be similar to what you are dealing with?

Another alternative that might work for running the tach is this product:
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....od/prd1192.htm

These can take almost any kind of input signal (w terminal, square wave from a hall effect sensor, etc) and convert it to a standard tachometer output like from an ignition coil, which is presumably what drove the tach originally in your gasser car. You could find another alternator that has a W terminal, if your existing one does not -- although it might have one already, as for some reason even many gas VW/Audi products had unused W terminals on their alternators -- and swap that on to run the converter from, or they offer a flywheel tooth sensor also that apparently you can bolt onto the bellhousing somewhere and it will pick up the speed that way.

I used one of these Dakota converters in a diesel swap into a gas Volvo 960 some years ago and it worked great, though that was the simpler previous version which I think they called the DSL-1. This updated current model supposedly does everything that unit did and more, though I have not tried one myself.

Their phone support is very good too so you could probably talk to them about your situation and they might be able to advise on what would work best.

Fun to see your progress on this, you do neat work, thanks for sharing it here!

Yes, I agree the final stage working through the finicky details always feels like the hardest and most tedious part. You can get to 95% completion very quickly but then spend an amazing amount of time trying to finish up that last 5% with little brackets, plumbing, electrical solutions etc. I think that's where a lot of ambitious projects die; some never make it to the point where they are fully functional since people lose motivation fighting those details, which is easy to understand. Or they sabotage the project at that stage by getting tired of the effort and settling for weak solutions. IMHO, it's how things are handled in this phase of a swap that makes or breaks the whole package in the end. Fortunately it looks like you are in no danger of letting your standards drop as many folks do. :cool:

Your earlier post was an interesting point also, noticing all the work the factory does on the original cars to get those things worked out, I agree with you there. All the little pieces and systems where you don't really pay attention to the intricate engineering effort until you have to re-create something like it yourself. :eek: The length and shape of every single wire and hose, the placement of harnesses and plumbing to avoid interference and maintain ease of access for future service, design of mounting systems, choice of fastener types, etc, are all the result of decisions and design work by the OEM... then when doing a rework as a one-off project like this one, the effort, measuring, planning, trial-and-error etc required to achieve a comparable well-finished result is eye-opening.

Granted, though, those efforts on the part of the OEM are sometimes lazy or unsuccessful or leave plenty of room for improvement, so it's not as if we should think of their solutions as sacred. I'm thinking of some places where service access or procedures are unnecessarily difficult, or a good example, the routing of heater hoses on a factory D24 or D24T engine under the injection pump where over time they are frequently damaged by fuel contamination. Many of us here with the Volvos have rerouted our hoses to avoid that area and also make service access far easier, with no functional downsides. So sometimes we can do better than the factory did, having the benefit of field experience.

What is being driven by the V-belt off the back of the camshaft in this configuration? Power steering? That is an unfamiliar setup, not used on the Volvo engines.

Throttle spools
 

Nice pictures showing the differences in versions. Thanks for the effort. The way the stock cable comes through the firewall at an angle, to get around the brake booster, it was nearly impossible to route the cable far enough to the passenger side to connect to the IP.

I haven't been getting notices on thread replies so am a little tardy in replying.

I found a LONG throttle cable from an early 1990's Datsun or Nissan which worked after hours of fitting, modifying and making brackets. It loops almost to the grille then back to the IP. I'll get a photo this weekend.

Thank you for the photo's. I did look at my friends 740 (mine soon) which is the same as the D24T/M46 photo you sent. See my replie the the post above this for what I ended up doing; photo's to come this weekend.

That's a good tip. I saw this somewhere earlier and may use it depending on what I find in the current Audi alternator, especially since the sprocket/pulley ratio is different. I'm also not sure where to attach it since I removed the entire ECM wiring harness...there were a few connections to the remaining harness which I'm sure is where the distributor signal connected, but I'm not certain, I was not thinking about that when I remove everything.

That's a vane type vacuum pump, odd stock mounting, it just sort of sticks out there.

You're also right in the time needed to finish the project, I felt 90% done three weeks ago!! The custom brackets, hose and wire routing and extra pieces and parts are extremely time consuming and, like you've observed, I don't want to skip the details towards the end of this project.

It's not very often when we, as long term users with mechanical experience, can factually improve upon the original engineering but it does occur.

Interesting. I always thought the 5cyl engines used the same plunger/diaphragm type vacuum pump mounted on the side of the head and driven off the cam lobe, identical to a D24 or D24T. In fact I'm almost sure I have seen some 5cyl diesel and gas engines that had that plunger style pump.

Does your engine have the mounting location for the plunger style pump as well? I wonder why they used this different setup here. Maybe something about the vacuum demands on the original car the engine was in being greater than the other type pump could supply, and this pump has higher capacity to compensate? Like if the former automatic trans had a vacuum based control system, or vacuum hvac or door locks like some cars from the '80s did? Maybe we will never know for sure.

I got my Toyota pickup with a TDI swap running and driving around the block for the first time 3 YEARS ago and am STILL buttoning up loose ends, wiring harnesses, plumbing routings, etc. Still have quite a bit yet to do, even now after all this time. 3 weeks is pretty quick in the grand scheme of these kinds of projects IMO!! :D

There's a casting for the plunger style pump but nothing is machined on the head.
The center and rear differential lock use vacuum to hold the lockers in place so maybe that's why, there's also not much room for the side mounted pump with all the hoses there.

I think I'll be working on some of the electrical stuff for some time, the tach, oil pressure warning light which I think has some connection to the tach, re-plumbing the cooling for the waxstat, etc., etc.

I'll post more photos today with a few more questions.

This is the first time I've done more than just a rebuild or engine swap and it's definitely time consuming. It's so nice to have access to that big shop even though it's 100 miles away, it has actually save me a lot of time; not having to wriggle around in my small garage.

Alternator
 

Here's some alternator photos, this first one showing a possible W terminal that's currently connected to a suppressor. Is this an actual W terminal? It's the one in the 6 o'clock position; the one in the 3 o'clock position is empty. There's no winding ends on this alternator so the possible W terminal is my only option with this alternator.

https://fz3slq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Suppressor part number 0 290 800 036.

https://fz3mlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Alternator part number 034 903 016 and from a parts catalog 034 903 017 BX

https://fz3nlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Oil cooler from Mercedes 300TD
 

Oil cooler bracket
https://fj3rlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Bracket with spring keeper.

https://fz3ylq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

View from the front

https://fz3zlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Tubing and hoses from the oil diverter valve. I'm not sure if my thermostat is working correctly and won't know until I get the engine under a load and hot enough to activate the "waxstat". If it doesn't work I'll just modify it so it's always in the open position as v8volvo suggested. I can just physically cover the cooler when it's real cold.

https://fz3olq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Throttle cable
 

Cable routing of a cable off a 1990's Datsun or Nissan.

https://fj3nlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Custom brackets, circled in red. I sandwiched a piece of a Volvo cable spool to the IP bracket.

https://fj3slq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Sandwich from the side

https://fj3tlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Airbox from Canadian Audi 5000
 

I got this with the engine, had to chop it down quite a bit to get it to fit in there. I still not to make some deflectors to prevent rainwater from getting in.

https://fj3mlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Grill reattached
 

Because of predrilling the tabs it went back in fairly easy.

https://fj3plq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Initial observations from running the engine
 

The most impressive thing is, because of using such oversized wiring on everything I've put in, is how fast the starter turns over and how fast the glow plugs heat up, also the 70amp fan runs perfect and all that wiring stays cool. Despite all the hassle of putting that in it was well worth it.

The engine runs very smooth but I won't know for sure until I get it under a load. It smokes quite a bit when backing off from mid throttle but I'm not concerned about it yet.

I still need to install the waxstat and readjust the timing, I've just had a very hard time getting hot water to flow through the unit. You can see the mess of plumbing I have in place now. I do have a reducing elbow coming which should simplify the routing and get the hot water into the waxstat. I'll put the 1" T in the line from the head much closer to the head.

I think that suppressor is probably something intended to protect fragile gasoline fuel injection system electronic control components, not needed on the diesel engine. If it's labeled "W" then I would suspect it is a real W terminal so you are in luck there! You can probably discard the suppressor and just connect your tach to that freed up W terminal.

I wonder if a Jetta TD regular diesel tach would swap into the Quantum dash and be fed by that W terminal. Though as you mentioned the ratio of pulley sizes might not be quite right and through the reading off so you would need to adjust the frequency with a signal converter anyway. At that point, maybe just using one of those Dakota boxes to do it all and hook right up to the stock gas tach might be easiest.

Looking great, will be fun to see the first maiden voyage on the road. :D

First drive
 

I got it on the road yesterday to test the cooling system, engine power, etc. Once all the gunk burned out of it it ran very well. I couldn't go to long since it was running pretty hot, not overheating just hot. I re-plumbed the waxstat supply and will test it again this week. I could hear steam in the system somewhere and have been fiddling with it for a few days. I had to raise the overflow bottle/reservoir about an inch to make sure the coolant level was above the tubes in the radiator. I think all should be well after I do a few Cascade dish detergent flushes to clean out the radiator, there's a lot of rust colored water coming out each time I flush and refill. I know there was quite a bit in the head so want to get it real clean.

The power is similar to the 2.4, very smooth, not like the 1.6 so I'm very impressed with that.

The oil cooler thermostat seems to be working fine, the temperature at the cooler after a wide open throttle run was 197F. The cooling fan seems to be working correctly. I also added a heat-sink for the Audi resistor when the fan is running on low speed and it was an absolutely necessary item.

More updates once I get the cooling system complete.

Still haven't figured out where to connect the W terminal from the alternator to get the tach working but I'll do some interneting to see what's up.

Congratulations! How does the gearing feel so far?

Gearing
 

I ran it at 70mph for a few miles and it was very smooth but I have no idea what the rpm's are. These engines are so much smoother than the 4 cylinder 1.6's it's hard to tell by feel. There's still plenty of pedal left so I know it will go a lot faster. I can tell it's a little under-geared when shifting up to get to 5th, again, not terribly but definitely noticeable.

I'm also still purging and cleaning the cooling system and will do more of this tomorrow, I'll then take another run and see what it feels like at 80 mph.

The car feels real stable and solid traveling at 70mph, I'm happy so far.

It's been over 100F when I'm making my test runs and the cooling system seems adequate. These runs are all on flat ground out in farm country, away from any authorities (knock on wood) since I don't have it registered yet. Once registered I'll bring it back to Reno and climb some mountains.

What's interesting about these IDI engines, specifically my 1.6TD, is how they run so much cooler when the air temp is below 70F. The cooling system can handle full throttle, 9-10psi boost, runs well but if the air temp is at or near 100F they run hot, not overheating, just near 220F.

Since my intended use for this car is winter driving to local ski areas I think it will do just fine. There's absolutely no room for a A/C condenser, A/C compressor or intercooler but I pretty much knew this going in. I also did not install that supplementary radiator which was shown early on in this thread. That 70 amp Audi fan is doing the job.

Sounds like a great runner, and maybe the shorter gearing is a good thing if it will be traveling mainly in mountains loaded up with ski gear. Long cruising gears are nice on flat freeways, but shorter and closer ratios maybe would be better for the mountains and back roads down there in the Sierras. Plus the IDI engines have their nice wide power band to use the short ratios.

100F with no AC sounds like a challenge for the driver as well as the car! The IDI engines do seem to kick out a lot of heat when working hard.

Cooling system mod's, kink
 

To alleviate the engine running hot I relocated the waxstat coolant supply hose by splicing into the upper radiator hose much lower than I originally had it using a very short T off a mid 90's Mercedes and a silicone hose from Prothe (Hans Auto. He gets hammered online but has some good stuff.) I was hoping to prevent air from being drawn into the waxstat lines. It did help but didn't completely solve the problem.

https://fj3zlq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

While draining the coolant, and I've done this about 10 times to get rid of the oxidized material, I found a kink in the line from the lower radiator to the thermostat. I placed another piece of hose around the kink and it now flows perfectly, doesn't overheat and there's no sucking steam sound. Problem solved. I'll re-plumb this with a pieced together hose.

https://fj3olq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Audi 200 fan
 

Since there was a 70 amp fuse on the Audi I assumed it was a 70 amp fan but it's a 500 watt fan so only 40+ amps. Turns out the fuse on the ground side was not a stock fuse. It's still extremely powerful and sufficient to cool the engine even on the 100F days I've been testing it. I don't think it's even run on high yet, but I also haven't climbed any hills.

Following the cooling system fixes it ran real strong yesterday. I'm still flushing the oxidation out and will continue to do so until I get clear water out.

I ran it up to 75 mph and could tell it's revving pretty high but still runs smooth and strong. I'm going to experiment with a tach from a spare Mk2 cluster and see if I can get it to work.

Sounds like you are getting close! Will be fun for us to see a video once you are all done.

A Mk2 diesel tach? I bet that would at least confirm that your W terminal is working on your alternator. If that tach powers up and registers some kind of reasonable reading then you at least know you have a good signal you can work with.