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-   -   New turbo setup! T3/T4, Pics added! (http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=40)

v8volvo 07-21-2009 12:27 AM

Great discussion... glad to see some different turbo options are working. Hope to get a proper turbo built for my TD at some point too. I like the idea of less exhaust restriction -- seems like these things really are restricted from the factory in terms of breathing. I can feel how mine wants to haul above 4000 rpm, but something is getting in the way, either in the intake or exhaust.

I'm looking at an FMIC too. Are you monitoring EGT or oil temps? Watch out as you pump the boost up... A good upgrade is going to a proper external oil cooler setup, you can use the thermostatic sandwich plate off a redblock turbo Volvo and use an RX7 or redblock heat exchanger. Way better than that junk VW setup that "cools" the oil via the coolant.

Jason, what are you going to do about the injector pump on yours? You are going to need more fuel at some point... Giles upgrade?

IceV_760 07-21-2009 03:05 AM

Ive heard also before about "giles upgrade" what is that?

Ive changed tactik to add intercooler, after talking with the guy in special shop.
Maybe it isnt the best possible place :rolleyes:

Ill add it behind that "spoiler", 700x160x52 total size intercooler will fit there, and you can drill holes to ic pipes next to battery and airbox.
No d24tic intake manifold for me, not in whole finland as i know..
D24 N/A intake manifold will be the choice then.

Jason 07-21-2009 05:22 AM

Yes, I'm talking about mounting behind the air dam or spoiler where the fog lights are. You could run one pipe up through the plate that sits below the air box (mine is gone, there is lots of space). I may route both through there, since the turbo and minfold inlet are on the same side.

The pump isn't a limiting factor yet... I think the HG is going to give out before I can max it out. With the new turbo, and the pump adjusted, I have enough fuel to push 25psi easily. No way the engine will handle that though. I haven't even removed the collar on the fuel screw yet. If more fuel was needed, next for me would be injectors and a lift pump. The stock head can supply plenty of fuel with a decent lift pump pushing it in. Even at 15lbs of boost with the new turbo, there is still excessive fuel, and a decent amount of smoke. At my current fueling, I would need probably 20psi to clean it up.

I'm not monitoring oil or exhaust temp at this point, I plan to add an EGT guage, but I know better than to lay into it for a long period of time on the highway or something without an EGT gauge to watch. Thats when you really build some heat. Same goes with the oil, between the stock cooler, and the 8 quarts that are in this thing, I doubt I'm getting it too hot. I just don't run it that hard all the time. I get into it here and there for fun, but otherwise I'm just cruising. I don't live in an area full of mountains to climb, so I'm thinking its fine.


Giles is a guy in canada that builds hotrod VE pumps. Pretty much he is swapping either a larger head and rotor, and or a higher lift cam plate into the pump for more fuel flow potential. There are other adjustments that are made, but they are all things that are do it yourself friendly.

Jason

Jason 07-21-2009 05:27 AM

Plan is to add the intercooler and push the boost to 18 to 20psi and some more fuel. See how long the HG lasts at that point. If she goes, the stainless one will be in my future...

Jason

IceV_760 07-21-2009 05:32 AM

If you want to save your engine dont go to stainless..
Its the last fuse between your engine life and death.
Some people there more likely burn headgaskets than risk their head.
But, go ARP studs same time if it blows and you change it!

Jason 07-21-2009 05:45 AM

Good point, I suppose I could do the stock gasket and studs...

I hate to do the gasket, but I would really not like to ruin the engine!

Jason

EvoStevo 07-21-2009 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IceV_760 (Post 351)
If you want to save your engine dont go to stainless..
Its the last fuse between your engine life and death.
Some people there more likely burn headgaskets than risk their head.
But, go ARP studs same time if it blows and you change it!

Wait, what's wrong with using the stainless gasket?

IceV_760 07-21-2009 10:25 AM

Stainless gasket wont "give up".
If gasket wont give up what is next on list?
Head..
If you check normal gasket every while and then it start to leak before it is completetely destroyed and there for saves it.

cuaz64 07-21-2009 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason (Post 343)
To me, the problem is where the air is going to exit off the intercooler... I guess it can go down around the engine. If it works for you, great! To me it looks easier to mount a long short one behind the front air dam. I also don't have access to a stock D24Tic manifold here in the states, so my plumbing is going to be quite different.

As I said, post up pictures! Not that I don't think it will work, I just think a front mount would be less work thats all...

Jason

You can use the "Slobodan way" to install an intercoooler.
Quote:

Originally Posted by IceV_760 (Post 347)
Ive heard also before about "giles upgrade" what is that?

Ive changed tactik to add intercooler, after talking with the guy in special shop.
Maybe it isnt the best possible place :rolleyes:

Ill add it behind that "spoiler", 700x160x52 total size intercooler will fit there, and you can drill holes to ic pipes next to battery and airbox.
No d24tic intake manifold for me, not in whole finland as i know..
D24 N/A intake manifold will be the choice then.

The "Gile upgrade" is a injection pump modified by Giles Banks in Canada. You can find the D24TIC throught a thread in the "wanted" section of turbobricks.com


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