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  #1  
Old 02-27-2018, 12:23 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Ngoma--I'm thinking of making a tool for that when the time comes.

One weird thing I noticed on the cooling fan is one of the blade tips is broken off. Should the fan be replaced?
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2018, 12:26 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Fanhttp://d24t.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1133&stc=1&d=151976679 2
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File Type: jpg Fan.jpg (80.3 KB, 7 views)
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2018, 09:44 AM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Yes you should replace that fan. Safety and/or balance issues. What condition are the motor mounts in?
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  #4  
Old 02-28-2018, 05:26 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
Ngoma--I'm thinking of making a tool for that when the time comes.
Don't make the tool, I can loan you the necessary tools and I'm not far from your area.
I just need to plan a few d24 projects myself but we'll figure out how and when to have " a d24 meet. "
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:30 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Ngoma-- The motor mounts seem pretty solid and there's no damage around the fan shroud. So it's a mystery as to why only one blade would be broken. I've been looking around for replacement fan, but to no avail. If anyone knows where there's one available, I'd be interested.

RedArrow-- Thank you for offering to lend the tools-very nice of you! It will be a while before I get to that point. Right now I'm having issues with the four valves sealing for cylinders 5 and 6 in the replacement cylinder head. I tried lapping them twice, but they're not passing my compressed air test. I'm still getting tiny bubbles. The surfaces on the valves and seats look good, so it could be that I need new valves, seats or springs. Next I'll get out the books for specs and take measurements. I didn't want to get this technical, but just can't, in good conscience throw things back together knowing there are deficiencies that can be corrected within reason. The other valves are sealing good though. Could it be possible that the compressed air is popping open the valve a bit? I'm blowing about 100psi into the ports with a less than airtight seal around the air nozzle and port. Is there a better way to check the valves?
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2018, 05:45 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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With some more lapping (the old fashioned way), the valves are sealing well. The camshaft and seals are installed. Now I'm looking at the injectors. They've been sitting in a stainless bowl, covered with rag in my garage for the past five years. I know the best thing to do would be to have them serviced and tested, but short of that, is there a way to clean them real quick for now? What about the heat shields? Can they be reused? I plan to eventually have the injectors tested and rebuilt if necessary. For now I just want to see if I can get it running.
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2018, 07:31 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Default Nice nice...progress!! After how many yrs? 3+8plus time spent at Prev Owner.

Please do not reuse injector shields, EVER, they are designed to deform specifically for best possible sealing... every time you torgue an injector into the cylinder head...so reusing them is strongly discouraged. Maybe some owners do!!!? Bad!
Especially because it is appr $2 each. An investment of $12-16 will make sure your injectors wont leak anywhere...AND you will not have to redo that sensitive AND OFTEN DANGEROUS injector project. So many things can go wrong...
These cyl heads are known to get broken threads there and that would be a sad moment. Because injectors often already spent 5-10-15-20yrs in there.
Use caution to make sure the holes are all cleaned (i vacuumed) while somehow plug the holes so absolutely nothing gets in (dirt, rust, aluminum thread particles, old carbon pieces, etc.etc...it is easy to cause damage. Use antiseize on thread at installation but dont use too much. I used copper antiseize but there are other variations.
It was a huge project to keep my inj holes clean right after taking them out. Because it was so rusty and so dirty in there! And i did not want anything to end up falling inside. And some of the injector thread was not in perfect condition and looking worn. This makes doing injectors a project that is riskier than many of us think. Try doing it just once....or as little number of times as you can...for best insurance and long lasting vw diesel sounds

If your old injector seals dont come out immediately after you finally get your injectors out safely, be very very careful. Don't use a crap quality pick tool. If parts or chipped metal lands in the hole, the motor wont be happy. A fraction of a second can result having to do huge projects.
I used the core of an extremely strong copper welding stick that I bent to form a hook of proper shape and size. Make it very long and/or bend a large handle on the other end so it cant fall in. I had to fight 2 of 6 seals like a mad cave man, #5-6 was extremely stubborn.
I went thread by thread to scrape away all dirt while seals were still in and i used a right-size thin plastic pen to plug the tiny hole of the seal itself, pushing pen down while other tool was scraping dirt that kept falling down on the seal. Lots of differently angled picking tools were used. Then vacuuming then redo until inj holes look very satisfying.

Took me a looong time. And i cant even complain bc my injectors only spent 6-7yrs in this cylinder head. Getting the injectors out was still a real biatch. Step by step...back and forth. Rust powder was shooting out and loud squeeking (and cursing!) heard...despite my 3-days of soaking the entire area at each injector in wd40 (or pb blaster?) that was sprayed on. Such a painful couple of days. Stressful too
Do your best to make sure the cyl head doesn't get hurt when taking out injectors that stuck in there. In general.
Also when doing injector torqueing, or when taking them out, please take *extra care* to apply force/pressure in a way so the area under the injector itself does NOT get too much pressure because it can easily break off. Ask me how i know...grrrrrr! @$%&?!!!
One head is out of order now. The little area where the injector threads in, is very sensitive to accept downward force.
Someone here wrote a lot on how to position yourself tightening and how to do it when loosening them. Basically never apply much force to the wrong direction (position your bar so you won't force that area *away from the cylinder head itself and also *not pointing towards the ground).
It is common sense but i think many dont think of it.
I will, forever...my cyl d24 has a huge chunk missing now under injector #6. Someone beefed it the wrong way or was hitting a tool while fighting with a stuck injector or a breaker bar to get it loose..maybe by hammer etc??)

About how to clean them, idk.i got away with cleaning 3sets of injectors but it is really so messy and challenging (to keep it all clean) that i would leave cleaning AND ESPECIALLY setting them, to a pro. I took mine completely apart, marked them, kept them and all tiny parts all separately from each other, soaked them too, did and tried all then did my best and put them together by the greenbook and torqued them then the engines ran but on a car and pump that is getting built I would only use the best (known to be clean and well adjusted) injectors. Idk what to say about you cleaning them...you may get away with a good careful brake cleaner flush, blowing air then redo but honestly idk.

If sat years, the hard lines are also probably a little rusty inside. And the pump.

I bought the proper injector tool from eb@y so injector nipples wont get damaged at my next injector project. A regular deep socket often interferes with those nipples which is not too good of a thing. ( Now my injectors are jb welded and finally do not leak at those "accidentally loosened" nipples.)
Good luck...keep bricking...
give yourself plenty of time to work around the injectors.

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-07-2018 at 08:50 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-08-2018, 06:08 PM
HarryCarry HarryCarry is offline
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Thanks RedArrow--Wow, I'm glad I asked! The donor head had three heat shields stuck in there. I soaked them in PB Blaster and was able to tap in a tapered punch through the holes to extract them. I was going to order new ones from RockAuto, but they only had four in stock. So, I called a local auto parts guy (Parts Plus) and he will have them in tomorrow with a better price to boot.

I tested the glow plugs that I pulled from the bad head and all six lit right up. As for the injectors, I think I'll run them buy my friend's shop for advice. I would eventually like to build an injector tester someday.
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  #9  
Old 03-08-2018, 07:19 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryCarry View Post
I tested the glow plugs that I pulled from the bad head and all six lit right up.
The best glowplugs are the duratherm bosch ones. Rockauto usually has them for around $5-8 each. I think part # is bosch 80010.

You will need them. And you need the best ones.
Change it as a set. I would not trust Champion and any unknown brands. And i would not mix different plugs either.
Do it while the engine is out...it is the best time to get it done. Esp if your injectors are out!

Last edited by RedArrow; 03-08-2018 at 07:22 PM.
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