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Waxstat - A quick how-to-replace
The waxstat stopped working in my D24T some time ago, so I replaced it. I took some photos in the process, and thought i would share them with you guys. Here in the cold and dark scandinavia, its not so fun to have a non-working cold-starting-device At first, this repair was not meant to be a making of a tutorial, so the photos are not the best.
The parts you need: New wire, o-ring, and the wax-stat itself. Now you have to take the waxstat housing apart. First, remove the two coolant hoses. The housing holds together with two 5mm (as i remember..) allen bolts. There is some large springs in the housing, so be careful when you loosen the bolts. You also need to loosen the wire at the screw in the retainer at the other end. The Wax-thingy, is located in this part Remove it.. Now you can see the element, behind the "nut".. I used a "VW strut tool", to loosen the nut. HAZET part number 2593-3 Old element, out of the housing New vs. old wire... Fit the springs, and put the thing back together in reverse order... According to Bosch, there is a very specific method to adjust the wire in the retainer. What I did, was to start the engine, vent the cooling system. When the engine is at operating temperature, the waxstat piston is all the way out, and the wire is fully slacked. Then tighten the screw in the retainer. Enjoy |
#2
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Great pictures and tutorial. Thanks for posting, this will be a helpful resource!
A couple details that could add further, how did you source the parts -- did you get them through Bosch or through Volvo? What method did you use for reassembling the housing against spring pressure? Member ngoma came up with a method that I like, which is to grab the cable where it exits the housing with a pair of needlenose vise grips before loosening the screws that hold the housing together, thereby retaining the springs as the rear section of the housing is removed. However, this only works if you aren't replacing the cable; if it needs a cable, you'd have to take it fully apart as you did. The couple of times I have had to do that, I used a longer screw (IP head screw I think) to pull it together until I could get one of the regular screws started. Is that what you did too, or do you have another trick? Thanks again, this is an important repair that many owners seem to neglect thinking it will be a hassle to fix, but this will help them and folks are always impressed at how much nicer the cars are to use when this system works correctly.
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5" 83 764 D24T/M46 155k |
#3
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Yes, thanks for the great info tutorial.
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1985 740 GLE |
#4
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Volvo was not helpful at all, when I was searching for parts. "Not in stock, and will not be in stock..." Is what they said. Also searched eBay, but without success
So a family member, who is a retired Bosch diesel technician. He knew where to get the few parts i needed for my coldstart-project. It was probably direcly from Bosch. The only thing he needed to know, was the Bosch part number on the IP. When assembling, I did exactly the same as you, V8Volvo. I began with some longer screws, and when the regular ones could reach, I continued with those |
#5
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Decoding the VE IP P/Ns:
My best attempt at your example: 0 460 406 018 6th digit = 0 = 10mm pump head (2 would = 12mm pump head) 7th digit = 6 = # of cylinders VE L 116 The "L" (vs. an "R") = counterclockwise rotation, as viewed from the shaft/cogged pulley end.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t |
#6
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940 tdi auto 1995
hi
i have just got back from holiday and seen your excellent information on this job i was lucky to have a secondhand pump so took the whole coldstat off and swopped it when mine failed i will have some questions for you when i get chance keep up the good work regards j.p.liddy |
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