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#1
03-12-2011, 11:16 PM
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was working on my cooling system for the diesel... the water lines connecting the cores in the radiator are filled with stainless spring shit to keep them open and not collapsed... unfortunately they are causing alot of drag on the water.. which is kinda good from a coolant stand point however just 1 pump and a filter only push 1.7GPM... when the pump is capable of 4.4 grrrrrr, so I added another pump in series and itll do 3.5gpm which will work... however now my silicone hoses near the first stage are bulging at 16psi lol.... however I have the radiator configured so the water has to take a 60 ft detour "actually calculated" to get back to the pump lol... this is the longest possible and will displace the most heat...
was thinking of using 1 pump per core... which would release most of the stress on the first half of the hoses... and ill still be able to keep the configuration.... more testing tomorrow with hot water to determine configuration settings... maybe I can configure bypass solenoids for different driving conditions... day to day driving stays on 1 pump and 1 core, but if the engine reaches a heat limit of 185 it kicks on another pump and flips the cores into series to ULTIMATE COOLING POWER!!!! looks like this: 1 pump with filter  2 pumps without filter "since filter didnt really restrict the flow" 
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#3
03-14-2011, 01:36 PM
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I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.
If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, along with the tropical clutch. With the tropical clutch, you'll get better cooling than even an electric fan conversion. Also, no radiator can keep the motor cool if you have a blown head gasket...
__________________
'84 760 D24T/M46 '86 Isuzu Trooper Turbo Diesel '01 VW Golf TDI
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#4
03-29-2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
you say 10gpm? i say it barely filled a coffee cup full in 30 seconds at idle =(
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#5
10-16-2011, 04:38 PM
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ok... so I finally got around to finishing this thing. I built my own cam holder... aligned the crank to TDC, bolted the head on at 80ftlbs per bolt, set the injector pump where I thought it should be... and nothing worked...
good thing is I didnt smash the valves "woot" I tried mercilessly for the next 4 hours; setting the timing advanced, retarted, and so on... till I finally got it to sputter to life... but thats about all it did, smoke a little run really rough and thats all... next day "sunday" I woke up with a genius idea of using a pair of calipers poked into the hole in the center of the injector pump to make for sure its on time... this worked! I had to hold them REALLY still and got it set to .039 with the advance cable slack. even with the timing set it runs kinda rough at idle... im thinking its still off =( also, something I noticed: before I took the front cam gear off originally, I sharpened a punch to a point and put a dent between the cam and pulley for alignment reasons..... however when I have the cam locked with the plate, and the crank at tdc... the notches dont line up... but only by like .075... im thinking the factory did this? long story short, it works, but it needs a gasket between the turbo and the flange... its leaks pretty bad under load lol.
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