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#1
10-24-2017, 10:35 AM
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Female spade connector on the brown wire that runs to the GP relay connects to the temperature sensor at the rear of the head. It slides onto the round disc standing off the end of the sensor, just slides on perpendicularly. It provides input to the GP relay logic, to determine whether to energize the GPs at start or not.
The other water temp. sensor, near the front of the head by #1 GP is for the instrument panel temp. gauge. Attached photos of the rear bussbar. The bends allow it to thread thru the IP mounting bracket. The #6 GP connection is slotted open to ease removal/install. The small nut on the GP terminal just needs to be loosened, not entirely removed (and lost!). http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...1&d=1508869984 http://d24t.com/attachment.php?attac...1&d=1508870006
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t 
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#2
10-25-2017, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
I'd never have thought that connector fitted onto that sensor end unless i'd put the head on first and seen nowt else to try it on! I offered up the head minus manifold to the block, unfortunately plug 6 fouls the pump, so need to decide weather to move the pump, or go with skint knuckles and swearing getting the plug and lead on afterwards haha! Cheers.
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#3
10-25-2017, 09:46 AM
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You'll probably like it better to remove GP #6 before refitting the head, and reinstall GP #6 afterward. Some like to lay a board over the engine compartment and attack it from the other side.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#5
02-06-2018, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Apologies for lack of reply, the work was put on hold for some time due to work commitments and crappy Scottish weather (repairs on the drive way, the worst for winter repairs!!) But I actually got kicked back off couple of days ago, and was planning a day at it today, but it bloody snowed here last night!  and am still planning an entire finished write-up on it....Power coated rocker, intake manifold, timing cover etc..the exhaust manifold was sprayed in high temp paint by me, but started to flake, so I just wire wheeled it right back to bare metal again, New gasket, head bolts etc, and head back on.... [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]Unfortunately the IP lock pin makes it through the pulley, but appears a tad too fat to make it into the hole in the IP bracket (pump and bracket are aligned, IP hasnt been tilted over, though i might as plug 6 is still needing inserted)..theres not much in it so i'll emery cloth it down a bit....inserted a piece of thinner bar I cut off a 1/2" drive bar, but its too thin to hold the IP locked out at the yellow timing mark on the pulley. [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]Also just noticed the rear cam pulley has a slot/key and a notch on the outer rim, like the IP pulley, cant recall anything on the rear cam nose that requires lined up, aside from the cam itself being locked off horizontally with tool 5190 or equivalent, I'll need to take another look at that when i'm next out... To do the crank locking i'm using an adapted lock tool from Skandix, its like Volvo 5187 aside from it's got a straight handle, so out the box you cant lock it against the fan housing, I drilled a couple of holes in it, got a bit 10mm mild steel and cut some spacer plates for it, to lock up, hoping it works as planned as the dreaded crank bolt during strip down, didnt test it, as was found to have about15ftlbs or less on it, i was ready with a huge breaker bar and a section of scaffold pole lol...anyway glad I found potential disaster!! [IMG]  [/IMG][IMG]  [/IMG]So weather permitting it should be running very soon (famous last words!!) Cheers.
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#6
02-06-2018, 12:53 PM
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We don't use the IP lock pin for setting the timing. The IP cogged pulley is keyed to the shaft and has a small groove in its outer edge that coincides with the fine straight mark on the IP body which will approximately indicate IP TDC position, close enough to correlate with crankshaft and camshaft TDC, close enough to get it dialed in with the dial indicator.
Sorry for the non-concise formatting of the important sticky IP Timing but I suggest studying it and following its procedures. The IP can be locked down to its mounting bracket in a position a little further away from the engine (to ease R/R of #6 injector GP) without ill effect, as long as the injection high pressure lines are not stressed. The rear camshaft pulley does not use a key as it needs to be able to rotate freely (until you tighten down the fixing bolt) on the end of the camshaft to set the timing. Creative workaround on the crank pulley holding tool.  Will it work on the other side of the fan pulley snout when tightening the crank pulley bolt? I presume it is not resting on the fan hub, to protect its bearings. How do you plan to set the high torque on the bolt?The Dogleg 17mm offset wrench is a great help dealing with the rear camshaft bolt. The Cam pulley holder is a must, for approaching and attaining the desired timing setting. The Injector line wrench sure makes R/R the injector lines almost enjoyable! These special tools are shown here, D24 Special Tools.
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1985 744 gle d24t 1985 745 gle d24t
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#7
02-07-2018, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Got enough meat off the IP lock pin to fit, still too bloody cold out there for working on cars really, my fingers were done in minutes, I must be getting soft in older age lol [IMG]  [/IMG]yup IP lock pin is just to get tdc, and i will allow the rear cam pulley to spin on the nose until torque up, I dont have the special tool with the drive adapter for the rear cam bolt, It was a son of bitch to get anything on the end of it to free-off, I eventually bought a set Neilson 'aviation' spanners which are straight and I could just manage to get decent purchase on it, I'll need to guesstimate the final torque on it though, as theres no chance of getting a torque wrench in there. As i look at that photos though the notch on the IP pulley still looks a bit off line, maybe I need to come around 1 hole clockwise on the pulley, also i'm thinking i'll probably need to move the IP bracket to tension the belt? not sure! On the rear cam pulley, that is the cam pulley in the pic off the car, not the IP pulley, was just surprised to see it also had a notch on the outer edge and was slotted, albeit the rear cam nose has no slot, and theres nothing to line a notch up to. I made a cam pulley holder, which should do the job, i'll probably need to use shorter bolts for the front cam though, and might put a brace piece across it to stop it folding. The adapted crank locking tool has a slightly longer back spacer so it takes the brunt on the inner side of the fan housing and not the front bearing, all attempts to beg, borrow or steal a truck sized torque wrench failed, I eventually got a decent price on a second hand Norbar off fleebay, that goes to 352 ftlbs... [IMG]  [/IMG]Looking at this following photo Ngoma, perhaps a dumb question, but with everything on TDC, cam locked off, but with pulleys allowed to spin, tension off belt etc..will I have sufficient valve clearance to move the engine back on the dampener to get the crank lock in place on the left side of the fan housing for crank bolt torque up, before I move back clockwise to TDC and torque up the everything else?, i'd have assumed even with the correct Volvo tool, it would need to be moved off TDC slightly to lock in place. [IMG]  [/IMG]Cheers.
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