Rescuing my Volvo after 3 years parked

[ngoma]

With special tools 5187 and 5188 you use a torque wrench, not a breaker bar. Torque to 255 ft lbs. The 5188 extension inline with the torque wrench amplifies the 255 ft lbs at the torque wrench handle to ~350 ft lbs at the bolt. Give it a shot, I bet you can do it.

BTW the greenbook specs 332 ft lbs tightening torque at the crankshaft bolt itself.

[jbg]

I don't own a torque wrench that goes to 255 foot pounds. That is also an issue.

Oh, okay, good to know. The green book says 255 foot pounds but I was never clear that the extension "juiced" it to 100 additional foot pounds. Interesting, thanks for that.

[bigvolvoboy]

I didn't have one either but harbor freight sells this adapter that's apparently pretty accurate and is rated to a crazy 750 ft-lb. https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...ter-58707.html

[ngoma]

Good find! 3/4" drive will need an adapter to fit tool 5188.

[jbg]

Oh boy that is a good find bigvolvoboy! They also have a "1/2 in. Drive 25-250 ft. lb. Digital Torque Adapter" which I guess I could connect to the 9995188 extension tool. Doing this if I can get ~250 ft/lbs. on the Quinn tool, using the extension tool that would equal ~350 ft/lbs. Right?

I'm not sure if that would all fit and not contact the radiator. Ideally I don't really want to remove the radiator, but I guess I need to pick the path of least resistance.

[bigvolvoboy]

I haven't tried myself yet because I'm waiting on some parts but I would highly recommend removing the radiator makes life a lot easier for sure.

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jbg

Doing this if I can get ~250 ft/lbs. on the Quinn tool, using the extension tool that would equal ~350 ft/lbs. Right?

Seems right. We could do the math. (The greenbook has been known to incorrectly calculate other conversion numbers.) How long is the extension, socket center to socket center?

"Regular" torque wrenches are more accurate in the middle of their ranges, less so at the extremes. I don't know if that still applies to this new type. Interesting thing to research.

Originally Posted by bigvolvoboy

I would highly recommend removing the radiator makes life a lot easier for sure.

Agreed. At least the fan clutch, fan, and shroud.

Also, since you will be moving the water pump back and forth, we like to replace the large WP o-ring gasket there with new.

[jbg]

Originally Posted by ngoma

Seems right. We could do the math. (The greenbook has been known to incorrectly calculate other conversion numbers.) How long is the extension, socket center to socket center?

The extension I am referencing is the Volvo factory tool 9995188. I would need to measure it.

Originally Posted by ngoma

Agreed. At least the fan clutch, fan, and shroud.

Already done! I removed them to get to the front crank bolt to turn the engine over.

Originally Posted by ngoma

Also, since you will be moving the water pump back and forth, we like to replace the large WP o-ring gasket there with new.

Oh, that's a great idea. I'll need to find a part number for it, thanks!

[jbg]

Tomorrow I'll be back at the site to work on the car. I don't have a lot to accomplish; instead several tasks that will lead to accomplishments:

• Remove the glow plug relay and take it home to bench test
• Drain engine coolant
• Disconnect transmission cooler lines from radiator
• Remove radiator
• Try to loosen the 4 6mm torx bolts from the crank damper
• Remove brake master cylinder and take home to bench test/rebuild/replace
• Remove battery (and replace)

I am removing the master cylinder due to the brake pedal being immovable. I have line wrenches that I hope will help with the brake lines at the master cylinder. Perhaps they might also help with the transmission cooler lines. PB B'laster could also prove useful.

Should I try to cover or plug the disconnected brake lines? I plan to service the brakes to whatever extent is needed. In the least flushing and bleeding the brakes, in the most replacing the calipers.

Thanks!

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by jbg

[*]Try to loosen the 4 6mm torx bolts from the crank damper[/LIST]

Be careful with this. I rounded one out once. Try all the prep tricks first:

• PB Blaster or similar.
• Clean out all debris from the inhex sockets. Use a pick.
• Sharp fresh high-quality bit.
• Hammer them head on with a punch.
• Twist clockwise first before unscrewing.
• Impact driver or impact wrench might be a good idea.

Originally Posted by jbg

I am removing the master cylinder due to the brake pedal being immovable. I have line wrenches that I hope will help with the brake lines at the master cylinder.

Again, try tightening them before loosening them.

Originally Posted by jbg

Should I try to cover or plug the disconnected brake lines?

Yes, to keep foreign debris out. I have used pieces of aluminum foil to "cap" them.