#5 injector removal

[genegr]

When you say rotate the pump out of the way. is it just the large bolt on the front mount. I can see a bit of groove that would let it rotate out. Or do I have to remove the belt from the pump?

thanks

[v8volvo]

No need to remove the belt but you also will need to loosen the three bolts on the IP mounting flange at the bracket, on the drive end of the pump. Two of them are hex head bolts accessible from the outside, the third is an inhex bolt that you need to get to with an extension and a 6mm Allen tool, preferably with a ball end since you cannot usually get straight onto it.

Before you move the pump at all, you will also need to scribe some very precise marks and rotate the pump exactly back to them when reassembling, otherwise the timing will change. Alternatively if you get the timing tools, and feel comfortable with the timing procedure, you can retime the pump in a further-outboard position. This is done by resetting the position of the rear timing belt sprocket on the cam. This way access is improved permanently but it's more involved.

[genegr]

Thanks for your help. Will I need to get a longer belt? Guess I don't see yet how it can move away from the head anymore than it is. I'm going to remove this pump anyways and have it rebuilt. I just want to try or check the timing before I move anything.

Thanks

[ngoma]

Originally Posted by genegr

Will I need to get a longer belt?

No, the IP rotates on its axis. You might want to replace the belt as a maintenance item as long as you are going to remove the IP, as you say.

Originally Posted by genegr

Guess I don't see yet how it can move away from the head anymore than it is.

It rotates on its axis; the top can swivel away from the head a few inches, allowing for easier access to the injectors. Rotating (and reclamping) the IP away from the head will significantly retard the timing, that's why you need to retime it after repositioning.

Originally Posted by genegr

I'm going to remove this pump anyways and have it rebuilt. I just want to try or check the timing before I move anything.

Not a bad idea, always good to set a benchmark so you know what you started with. For R/R the IP I like to take it out still attached to the cast iron IP bracket. When reinstalling just have to make sure the belt is not too tight. Too tight will overstress the IP shaft bushing, leading to leaks, loss of prime, hard starting, poor performance, etc.

[genegr]

Got it now. Thanks for your help

[monkeh]

Well, Ive pulled the head. I am astounded by the lack of wear on the block. A small scuff on #3 cylinder wall...
The head? Toast... I popped out all of the pre chamber cups and found cracks leading up to the injector seat.
Also found 2 cracks between the valves. IF my head wasn't goosed with the pre chamber, would the cracks between the valves mean the head is stuffed? These cracks are between valves in each cylinder, not between cylinders...