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Old 02-24-2012, 01:42 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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There should be an accordion rubber seal where the cable exits the housing shown in the right side of your photo. Can't really see if it is there because of the busy countertop pattern but it looks like it is missing.

Thread the cable end thru the metal washer, next thru the two springs (one inside the other, like valve springs), then thru the inside of the housing, and out the small hole to the right.

The hard part is clamping both sides of the housing together, with the IP bracket sandwiched in the middle. Some use longer bolts. I have had success clamping the housing (spring side housing) in a vise and compressing the springs to the max by pulling the cable with considerable force, and clamping a vise grips around the metal rigid part of the cable now extending out the housing, keeping it from retracting it back in.

Take good care of the cable.

To help pull the cable against the strong spring pressure I had attached the IP cold start lever, with the barrel clamps, to the end of the cable. Of course after scribing matchmark lines on the lever and its shaft before removing it from the IP to do this. This gave me something that approximated a handle to pull the cable with. And didn't beat up the cable too badly.

When removing it the next time, while still all mounted on the IP, pull the cold start lever and clamp the visegrips on the metal sleeve part of the cable at the end of the housing, then it will be easier to reconnect.

When you tried a manual cable, did you try to pull the lever before starting? It should be easier while the IP rotor is turning. So the better method would be to pull the lever just after starting cranking.
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1985 744 gle d24t
1985 745 gle d24t
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