Disassembly of 1984 d24
 

This motor came out of a Volvo 1984 240 blue color 3speed automatic usa edition sedan that was bought by a friend then swapped. The car received a Ford 302 engine instead of the diesel d24 nonturbo it had in the factory.
I will ask him to provide all details in case someone is interested to know. Also I heard that by now the swapped car is running well and it recently was offered for sale but Idk much about the build yet.

The future d24 power did not sound satisfying to the PO; or/and they didn't have the d24 specific tools to start with and couldnt manage to get it started at all...so it had to go. Also they did not have a diesel volvo before.
The d24 and bw55 tranny etc almost ended up junked but I bought it and picked them up in time.
Part of the story that he wanted cash asap PLUS a sixpack of Pabst BEER that was extremely hard to find in Long Island (and/because it was a holiday too) but I managed to get a 12pack instead so the motor came with the Greenbook manual and the radiator and some of the diesel related leftover parts. :)

Long story short, I bought it and took it home for a huge clean-up then a partial disassembly followed soon after (appr 2.5y ago).
The d24 was completely misadjusted but after all necessary precautions and inspections, proper timing, valves, electrics and fluids, injectors, glowplugs, fuel system clean-up, ip flush, belts etc... it started and finally was running smooth. It got painted by the dude who swapped the Ford in... in the colors of the German flag, respecting German VW engineeering. But as I said, they weren't successful starting it and gave up.

It ran nicely after it got very well adjusted but the results of *previous* improper ownership and/or lack of skilled maintenance both left marks inside and outside this engine.

It ran quite smoothly and i had a cooling system set up for it so I could have it running for a period of time for check ups and adjustments. It always started easily and Im guessing it had good compression and a good chance being very rebuildable but time will tell.

At the last start-up I had, I noticed bubbles sent through the coolant to the expansion reservoir so then, for safety, it was left "idling" on the engine stand for appr 2yrs with the exception of getting started for a quick minute, a few times every 3-5 months.

Let's see later what condition the cylinder head is in.

Is it going to be a fun project motor or a boring parts donor?
Disassembly started...
Here's a few pictures...stay tuned for the news... and let's hope the head is still flat enough.

Here is the video of the very first start up (not much manual bleeding happened lol)
https://youtu.be/7oz-8qPDv4U

Nice illustrations. I read something interesting regarding 1.5 and 1.6 VW diesel heads in a catalog from Parts Place in Michigan. Instead of machining a warped diesel head they heat the head until it is in a "plastic" state. Once the head reaches the proper temperature they use a press to remove the warpage. This ensures that the centerline of the camshaft bore and head surface are parallel. I'm hoping for you that a new head gasket and more of your expert care will remedy the leakage. It's amazing how many write these engines off as junk when it's so important to have the right tools and help from this board. :)

it's nice to see that you revived the motor :)

Did you make a complete overhaul? Which parts did you replace


Regards

Nice idea. Is this a common practice somewhere? Can most of the warped heads get saved this way? I would like to hear about this trick...any videos available?

D24 1984 motor, head is stamped "83"
 

Thanks I only did the basic setups as suggested by the book then it started and ran nicely. Yes these cars often end(ed) up in the wrong hands...people who thought and believed "ohh diesels run forever!" Etc...
Add the rare& expensive tools, regular oil that was changed rarely, some lack of maintenance and all this immediately explains how the VW made d24(t) motor became infamous (especially in the usa).

My video shows the very first start after the basic refurb AND that was BEFORE I took the head off 2.5yrs later (last month).
I got busy with other projects so the thread will not receive updates like I originally wanted to do it.

In the meantime, parts are on the way, the head is off, getting cleaned and lots of measurements will follow. Im hoping to post it up soon. So far it looks like another very slow project.

Are you changing piston/rings, valve, bearings, etc...

I disassembled the engine, head is off but I havent taken measurements yet. I havent got big nonturbo plans though... The two d24 spares are my engines to learn things on.

I'm not sure to understand... You have or not some big turbo plans? :D

Im not sure how well known this cylinder head flattening process is. Parts Place cited the tendency of the four cylinder VW diesel heads to arch when overheated. The whole head then needs to be reheated and put in a press to rectify the warpage. If one had a warped and terminally cracked D24 head to practice this process on that could confirm if this is an option for the longer D24 head. Parts Place may be willing to share more information about the process.

Easy and inexpensive ways of a complete clean up of the d24 cylinder head.
 

In the previous post, I meant to say that I do not have big plans for the nonturbo d24 spare engines. I am keeping them just to get familiar with internal parts, repairs and assembly.

I have a question, though I maybe I already asked about it before. Probably in the other d24 disassembly thread (Resurrection of 1981 d24).

Well, long time ago I took all accessories off and got the engine apart, the cyl head is off now and partially disassembled.

What is the best solvent to use for a very good clean-up of the stained, oily, burnt, oxidized etc aluminum head?

Is it a good idea to have it soaking (submerged) in "petrol fuel"= gasoline? That worked great with the intake manifold, just a few hours of soaking in fuel took off EVERYTHING completely, inside and out, including carbon deposits, oil and all. (BTW, diesel fuel did not work well, at all.)

I know, it is flammable but is there any other disadvantage? Or, what is the best way of getting rid of all poop and prep the head for checkups, repairs?

1984 d24 from blue 244 car that received a 306 engine swap.
 

Today I rechecked this engine
because I wanted to take a picture of a part for Mrvos.
I also took off the storage cover to see `how it was doing`. I regularly do that. I add some motor oil on top of the pistons and turn the motor over a few times by the crankshaft, both directions, just to make sure it all moves inside for a few revolutions and oil relubricates the parts better than standing too long unmoved. (I`m not too happy about the cooling system `new` surface rust but that can be cured later on AND I`d like to ask questions relating how that`s done most efficiently)

About a year ago I didn`t go back to continue working on this engine because somehow I got busy then I got confused...
I thought, until now, that this was the d24 where cyl#1 had a bad head bolt thread discovered.

I checked my notes I wrote when the head came off. It was not this engine but another d24 I have. That day two d24s got their head off so somehow I mixed the info up. :)

This is some good news because it means that this d24 can have the cylinder head back on and get back to running condition relatively easily one day (easier without, than with fixing damaged headbolt threads). :)

The cylinder head of this 1984 d24 shows cracks between the valves and I need to check that for sure. If it isn`t too much out of the specs and if it isnt right near the waterways then that`d be good enough news for me to proceed.
I`ll get it out of storage and reinspect. I have the Volvo tools to measure it and... fingers crossed.

For now I filled the headbolt holes with diesel fuel and rolled the engine over plenty of times. I added a spoon worth of diesel on top of the pistons when I did that. It all moves freely and nice. I soaked some paper in diesel and covered the head with that and repacked it temporarily. Let the thing soak a little, hopefully it will be much easier to achieve getting the surface cleaned up better or easier. What an ape method there :)

I really need to get this back together.

Here`s a link to the video how it ran 4-5y ago when I took it home and set some things up to get it started again:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oz-8qPDv4U

Here`s another one where it runs well, it`s a coldstart BTW (well, in June, but engine was cold). It had some blowby but not very bad. Valves set, new plugs, manifolds off for new gaskets, intake cleaned, new oil new filters, pump removed & flushed then reinstalled & timed etc basic stuff, new oil pan gasket, orings at various places, new tstat, v.c gasket etc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rflixyiW5hk

The problem was that when warmed up, this engine would pump some exhaust gases into the coolant reservoir tank. I ran this for a few times dry without noticing... I only got to know about it after I set up a completed cooling system for this engine. I bled all air out but started seeing `air` again which was not air but exhaust gases. So that`s why after taking some videos of it running, the head had to come off and get inspected anyway. Well, that project really got `stuck` back then.

Soon, a project may restart to get it fixed up.
All accessories and parts have been removed and properly packed away and kept in dry storage, sealed up; so now it all depends on what condition the cyl head is in.
Here are the photos from today:

Headgasket condition 1 and what it tells about the engine
 

The headgasket looked like this. For reference I kept it but for easier storage it got folded in half so ignore the tear in the very center.

There`s rust, discoloration, corrosion, carbon, burning etc and it`s not pretty.

I found a GOETZE label on this gasket. And a number that reads: 11485-41-...

INTERESTING THAT THIS GASKET WAS RESTRICTING PLENTY OF FLOW.
ALSO, BETWEEN EACH TWO CYLINDERS, THE TWO TINY HOLES ARE FULLY `PLUGGED` (by an un-punctured gasket) ON ONE WHOLE SIDE OF THE ENTIRE CYL HEAD.
Telling by the gasket notch&label side, the side I`m mentioning above is the manifold side of the d24.

HG condition part 2
 

This is what the gasket looked like. IDK if it`s an original gasket or not, no idea. The car was titled as a 1984 244 but the cylinder head is stamped 83.

Cyl head condition Part 1
 

To be able to take correct measurements, I had do clean it up a little.

This is how the cylinder head looks before assessing what to do.

ANY THOUGHTS?

Advice, ideas AND suggestions are very much appreciated.


I think these `macro` pictures are showing a condition that`s probably and hopefully not as bad in real life as they seem here. It is the camera that kind of exaggerates damages such as pitting, scratches, crack width etc.

Yes, the head doesnt look too great and it has cracks.
Those cracks are located between the intake and exhaust valves, probably the widest gap is at the front, cyl#1. I would estimate it to be 1mm but not sure. The tip of an exacto knife blade fits in it just a little but that is not some good comparison or a scientifically accurate measurement. :)

Now that the surfaces are somewhat cleaner than when the head came off, time to take some time to measure warpage. :) This engine was sending gases into coolant and I saw it too when I got it started after some sitting... a possible overheat event is unknown, I`d put my bets on a YES.


What is it that these pictures can already tell you?


(and what`s the max warpage that you`d allow?-- in case this head checks out as a worthwile candidate for a revival attempt. should the greenbook be followed? they would junk any head over a 0.5mm gap I think. maybe 1mm, I cant remember. )

CYL head wiped clean, part 2.
 

I`ve seen valves much worse than this.

My concern is the visible ring-shaped marks.

Probably left by the gasket around the perimeter of the sealing surfaces.

What else do I see? I can see some pitting and probably some wear marks that might have been caused by a broken or disintegrating glowplug tip IDK.

The chambers dont seem to be loose and are sort of `flat` and level with the surface of the cylinder head.


Again, thoughts and ideas, suggestions are very welcome.





Have you seen much worse? Have you reused something like this?
Would you and is it even worth the try?


Those marks tell some stories.
On cyl one near the valves area, I can feel the circular marks` depth by my fingernail. Not very deep but I can feel it, it is not only visible but is really there. :)

The burnt area/pitting of the chamber tells something too...
but that surface looks very bad only in my picture, not horribly bad in real life. They don`t appear to be cracked or worn through but I cant see them from the inside though. I have a 2mm camera so maybe I should.


Thanks for the ideas and checking through lots of pictures!

PS. some of the piston tops show `light kissing marks` from the valves. Not a huge collision but they are present on 1 or 2 pistons. I need to clean the bottom up too.

Cyl head part 3
 

Cyl head additional pictures

Not just the circular marks but the gap also, both look worse in these pictures than in real life. Yes, but they are there.

Many folks would throw this head out but maybe as many would try to refit it.

The worst looking parts?

Thanks for opinions..

just wondering, what causes (the most) the headgasket sealing rings leave the circle marks/imprints (visible on all 6!)? let`s see i think it was the pistons I need to open this to see closely again.
Out of the circle marks, the outer ones seem `deeper`.

Prioritize Your Workflow
 

Especially, as you mentioned the engine was overheated:

Prioritize Your Workflow, the main go/no-go is the warpage. Greenbook clearly describes the specs and measuring method. Are you going to second guess their specs? If it's warped/twisted beyond the limits don't waste your time worrying about fire ring wear or cracks between valves (BTW, less than a nickel width is generally considered acceptable).

Next comes: How are you going to measure the head warpage? I tried with some straightedges bought from HD but was not satisfied because of the lack of accuracy. Best left for a machine shop IMHO.

Those cracks don't look bad to me. I rebuilt a 1.6TD with much worse cracking and it still runs good. I had a machine shop rebuild the head and they pressure tested it prior to working on it and it was fine.