Yes, they used the same pulley for the two positions. The notch and keyway relief do nothing in the camshaft rear position.

Just realize that a torque wrench is not very accurate near the ends of its range.;) And, how much do you weigh?


Sequence of steps:

1. Torque the crank pulley first! If you already have the camshaft timed to the crank you can rotate the engine at will, but use a wrench, not the starter.

2. Set the front belt tension (water pump "hinges.") Not too tight. Two fingers should be able to twist the belt almost 90deg.

3. Time the camshaft. Have crank at TDC, loosen the front camshaft pulley bolt, tap the pulley to free it up, place the special tool in the camshaft rear slot, with a 0.2mm feeler gauge shimming the left side (closest to the IP) "up."
Tighten the front camshaft pulley bolt.

4. Set the IP belt tension by raising or lowering the IP mounting bracket. This belt especially should not be too tight or else it will elongate the IP mainshaft bore and leak no matter how many new IP mainshaft seals you install. Two fingers should be able to twist the belt almost 90deg.

5. Time the IP as referenced in the links, we don't use the plug. Unless you get lucky on the first try or two you will quickly tire of the ill-fitting wrench on the rear camshaft pulley bolt, and a rickety pulley sproket holder. Is there nobody in your area that can loan or rent you these tools? Might as well try for the crank tools also.

Do you have the green book?

Ok thanks Ngoma, think i'm fairly clear on it all now, I've got a PDF which covers the D24, I heard there was a D24TIC supplement which I never could find, as for tools, short of the ones sat collecting dust in every nearby Volvo dealership, then unfortunately not!

I had read about torque wrenches loosing accuracy at the limits of their range, but it the best option available, I'm no lightweight haha, so should just about get the req'd torque on it with a bit leverage from my trusty breaker/scaffold bar combo, at least it will be a load better than the 15 odd ftlbs it had on it (incidentally the belts were 25,000 miles off requiring a change!!)

That DIY pulley holder is perhaps a bit sturdier than it looks in the photo, that a big old torque wrench its sat beside, so should hopefully do the job, I might have a replica of tool 5201 in mind, I'll sleep on that :rolleyes:

Only thing i don't quite get is how I can freely turn over the bottom end, without contacting a valve at some point through its rotation unless it was timed to the cam /attached by the belt, or do you mean i can turn freely off TDC for just that small range I need to lock my tool.

Cheers.

Leave it at TDC. Tighten the crank pulley bolt as best you can, using your pulley counterhold tool in one hand, wrench in the other.

Do a camshaft timing while at TDC. Tighten the camshaft pulley bolt. Now you should be able to rotate the engine without interference.

Rotate as necessary to place the counterhold tool against the other side of the fan pulley snout. Go back and reef on the crank pulley bolt.

Rotate the crank CW one time.

Check the belt tension again (we don't expect it to have changed anymore but it's an easy check).

Back at TDC, check the camshaft timing, adjust if necessary.

Looks like you dodged a bullet!:D

You can do it-- doesn't have to be pretty-- Just put a couple doglegs like in the photo-- the square socket drive is really not necessary. Get the bolt tight but not crazy tight. Don't recall this one ever loosening on its own, but if it does, it will not damage the engine.

If you crank the engine carefully by hand, you can percieve if there is a contact happening before doing any damage.

Many thanks for all your help, I appreciate it Ngoma, think i'm good to go, I'll let you know how it goes :)

Cheers.