Whats wrong with the Bosch pump?
 

I am new here but maybe someone can help me, i have installed a D24TIC (originally from a 760 GLE Turbodiesel from 87) into my Volkswagen LT 35 from 96. The engine was running smooth in the Volvo.
I have changed the oil pan and removed alternator and different other Things which is bolted to the engine, but nothing else has been changed or i can write a list :) No the big problem is that it starts ok after the installment but it dies like 1-2 minutes after??? Every air bubbels are away and i ´have installed a small pump in the tank to help filling with diesel to the pump!! Before when i just installed it it had the same problem, but my friend took of the pump while I was away, I have a orginally LT turbo diesel pump and we tried to start the D24 with this without luck....now I am back with the Bosch TIC 2 pump. I bought the green Volvo book about overhaul of the d24 and have ajusted the pump to 0,9 mm before TDC!! but now i do have a problem more that it starts very badly and kills itself after 1-2 minutes....are there a better way of adjusting the pump than the Volvo manual or what?

Its a really nice project if i suceed as everyone in Denmark hates the old LT's becuase they do have weak engines...thats the reasen that I am going with the Volvo modified LT engine..

I can't find a really good link of adjusting the pump on youtube? any links? Another thing which is bad is that I cant turn the engine on the front because the LT has a good damn big cooler in the way...

Hope somebody knows something and will promise to show Pictures of the car and the engine transfer..:) Filip Denmark

ps. by the way the Cold start valve was disconnected when i timed the pump...can the d24 live without the Cold start valve? it is really tricky making it Work in the LT because of bigger cooling hoses and flanges...

The motor can live just fine without the cold start device, only will have rough and smoky starting and first few minutes of running when the weather is cold. It is much nicer to live with when the device is engaged and in working order, but won't hurt anything if it is not.

It sounds like you have some kind of major fuel system restriction or an air ingress issue. Do you have a transparent fuel line from the filter to the pump inlet? Can you see any foam or air bubbles in that line?

Another thing to watch for is to make sure that you didn't accidentally switch the IP inlet and outlet banjo bolts. The outlet bolt has much smaller orifices and a little screen in it, and says "OUT" on top of it... if you reverse them, it will cause a big restriction on the inlet side and no control of internal housing pressure on the outlet side so it will run terrible, and maybe could stall after a while I guess.

One other thing I had happen once was an injector failure that caused this kind of issue. It was on a D24T that had been running well but then sat for a couple of years. The engine would start up if you bled the lines to the injectors but would run rough, and if you shut it off, it would not restart unless you bled the lines again. If you cracked any of the injector line nuts loose while the engine was running, lots of foam would come out, like the pump was sucking air in. I couldn't find any place air was getting in upstream of the IP so I assumed leaky shaft seal and replaced IP with a known good running one -- still had same issue. Eventually I found that although all the injector unions had foamy fuel coming out when opened with engine running, #6 had way more than the others. #6 injector had stuck open, allowing engine compression to be forced backwards into the IP, filling the pump up with air. Replaced that injector and all was well. I think if I had tried to run the motor for longer than I did, it might have filled the pump up with air enough to stall it after a while, like you are describing. If you can't find other causes, this might be something to check as well.

Good luck, sounds like a neat project -- looking forward to seeing pictures of how it turns out!

no air i think!
 

I see what you meen about the injector. The LT i originally made with a clear plast fuel hose and i have just renewed it so that i was sure there would be no air bobbles...there is nothing to see only clean diesel fuel, especially after the mount of the electrical pump no air can be seen, I checked the banjos for in and outlet and I see the difference as you said but the outlet is with a small hole and like a filter inside. There are new copper gaskets and both banjos...but I will go and check everything again.

I have changed the filter to a "volvo" type because the VW filters recirculates the outlet diesel from the through the filter, and I hoped that this would help, maybe because of air in the filter...You see the LT is born with a ACT engine which is a D24S engine with lower performance....its born with 69HP to 2100 kg of LT! Therefore i will keep trying until it will run....do you any problems with the HP bosch pump or are they just running and running?

Thanks all ready for the help...:)

That is good description of the IP fuel return orifice bolt, looks like you have not made a mistake there.

Do you also have a clear section of hose on the fuel return section? To inspect for air bubbles in the return line.

Problems w/ the Bosch VE IP?

They run a good long time if they are fed well-filtered fuel and if the drive belt is not too tight.

A tight drive belt will wear out the bushing that supports the end of the drive shaft which causes an air leak at that end seal. Then fuel can leak out here and allow air in when stopped, causing hard starting, poor running, and bubbles.

A few have reported broken tab on the fuel collar, dangerous, can cause runaway condition if collar slides to WOT.

More common: misc. leaks from aging seals, and possibly from changing fuel types.

Running with clogged fuel filter can damage the vane pump, reducing internal pressures which reduces internal timing advancement resulting in poor performance. More progressive vane pump damage will send metallic debris throughout the rest of the IP and can seize the fuel metering collar to the shaft, causing the runaway condition listed above.

arghhh..I killed it
 

The other day i figured out the problem...the only thing about it is that I will make a complete Picture gallery of the modification of the d24 engine the Volkswagen LT...and i will donate a nice amount when it runs Again..:)

Anyway the problem is bad! The Volvo D24 only has one oil pressure switch in the block! An LT ACT engine has 2!! One of them is for alarming when the oil temperature is to high! I connected one of them and did no look at the oil pressure warning lamp! Now I see i stops the red light even before starting the engine...yeah you are right now...I tried turning the engine with the oil pressure swicth out! no oil!! tried to take of the inlet hose for the turbo charger..no oil! I took of the filter and good damn no oil! I killed the engine by starting it serveral times with out any oil pressure...but could not hear it or anything else and I was only concerned about the Bosch Pump...of course the engine dies on me when it gets hot without any lubrication...so folks do do this at home!
The next thing will be to take the engine out Again and se what happened and why no oil in the engine..I filled oil to the sump but it won't suck! So as I described the only thing that I changed was the oilpan and the oil pump sucking pipe!! something must be wrong Down there..unfortunately it is not possible to take off the oil pan when the engine is mounted in the LT..så on it Again and new piston rod bearings and maybe cranshaft bearings!

But as I told you a lot of Pictures will occcur..and now the ultimate plan is that the LT will have all the orginal D24TIC parts on it..I mean intercooler and so on...is has tp be beautyful now...

Thank you for the helt until know and sorry for killing a d24 engine for now..I will rescue it Again..:)

Well that sucks.
I'd have a look at the pressure relief valve on the oil pump, sometimes it can stick. Is that where the LT temp sensor mounted?(front of engine bottom right)

Hej Filip,

there's a full photo guide of the conversion on the german LT Forums already.

Here's the link to the german LT-wiki: http://www.lt-forum.de/dokuwiki/doku...&s[]=volvo

A web-translator may do the job for you.

This PDF file is what I used for my transplant: http://www.lt-forum.de/dokuwiki/lib/...otor_im_lt.pdf

Obviously it was easier in my case, as I went from a D24T to a D24TIC, but the german guides also cover retrofitting the turbo to a non-turbo engine, like the ACT.

I found the guide quite comprehensive. Maybe there were 2 or 3 things, that we figured out on top of it, but it was pretty straight forward.

The issue with the ACT is actually not only, that it has more oil-pressure sensors, but it also has more sensors in the coolant system, than previous LT engines.

Pictures from my build are in here: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=905 . I've tons more taken throughout the process.

/M

The LT temp sensor is mounted in the exact same place as on the Volvo engine. It's just a 1-pin temp sensor in the older engines, compared to a 2-pin sensor in the volvo. Not sure about later LT engines. Would require that I rummage in my scrappy.

/M

Oh. And regards to your oil issues.

Did you also change the pickup-pipe inside the sump, when you changed the sump ?

My 4x4 LT one reached a lot deeper into the sump. The Volvo one won't do.

/M