Time for another update! Its starting to cool off, shit its already the end of october!!! I was hoping to have the engine in already. I have been working on the engine pretty consistantly each night. I cleaned up the valve cover, blasted the exhaust manifold, and finnished the cylinder head. Valves are all adjusted. I'm just waiting on my head gasket. I'm taking the motor mounts, timing belt covers and a couple other pieces with me to work today to clean up in our tumbler to install tonight. With the valve cover on, it really tops off the look. Pretty bull-dozer spec I think. Its gonna look like a million bucks once its in the car!


http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...o/100_2637.jpg

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looks like a cummins 6BT haha! where can i get one of those stickers?

Looks fantastic Jason. I wasn't sure about your choice to paint the head at first but now that I see the whole thing put together, I agree with your decision. It looks great. Definitely unique. :cool:

Might want to check valve clearance again after you torque the head down. Do you have a good water pump to use for it?

Thanks! I had the decals made by a friend of mine to mimic the Cummins "C" found on the engine valve covers and on the newer dodge diesel truck front fenders.

I plan to recheck when its torqued, but I cant immagine it will move that much. As long as there is clearence on all the valves I'm gonna start it, as they are going to go out after the first run with the freshly ground seats and valves. I plan to check and adjust after the first 500 miles or so, and I may just check quickly after the first startup. I haven't ordered the pump yet, I'm gonna get the bosch from Rockauto since all I have access to is that crappy GMB with the bad impeller.

Jason

The MLS head gasket is here! That thing is HD compaired to the fiber one. Between the studs and that gasket, its gonna be pretty bullet proof. I'm going to be power washing the engine compartment, engine, and trans this week sometime and then start taking everything out. Pictures to come.

Jason

You are doing a fantastic job with your motor!

Where did you get the MLS head gasket from?

Thanks for the compliments... I ordered mine through my local Volvo dealer. Since I work at a shop they sold it to me for whole sale so it ended up being $85. I torqued the head on last night, installed the cam seals, motor mount brackets, and painted the timing covers. Just waiting for the water pump now.

Jason

Update with a couple pics, I modified a remote oil filer mount to thread directly on to the bock where the normal mount goes. This way I can run hoses to the cooler and remote mount the filter. I had been thinking to myself how much easier things would be if that stupid ass cast mount wasn't right there, and if I could just have fittings and oil hoses... Then a pciture popped into my mind out of the green book, showing the block assmebly for a D24, it has the oil filter screwed right to the side of the block. We have remote mount oil filter heads at work that a D24T oil filter screws on to, so I knew the bolt that holds the stock cast mount on isn't some strange thread. I brought one home and bingo! Trying to get the area less clutered since the turbo, waste gate, and intercooler piping are all smashed up against the oil filter and related mount assembly. Also, this will give more room for the planned T66 turbo upgrade. With the current setup, there is no room for anything any bigger, as the waste gate canister already touches the mount. Not sure where I'm going to mount the filter yet, but thats not a big concern. Also, I modified the Cat fuel filter mounting head to bolt down to the factory fuel filter mount plate. Looks very factory and hugs the block nice and tight, exactly what I was looking for. Water pump should be here tomorrow, I ended up buying the "cardone select" pump from rockauto, as they were out of Bosch pumps and it wouldn't even let me order it, maybe they dropped them? Tom Bryant checked out a bunch of available water pumps, and as I remember the cardone one had the stock style impeller and was overall good quality, thought the impeller is plastic. At this point, I think I would rather have the stock style impeller made of thick plastic than the crap stamped steel one like the GMB pumps. Theres no way that flows as much water, especially with how the water pumps inlet isn't very tight to the pump impeller, since the water pump is adjustable. Plan to take the engine and trans out Monday!

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Is the block squeeky clean or what!!?? I know your jelous!!! Gotta brag a little, even though most of my friends think I'm totally retarted taking this thing to this level.... If I'm bothering to do this much damn work, its gonna at least look good, and who knows, a diesel power challange for cars comming up perhaps??? No ones engine is going to touch how fresh my setup is going to look!
Jason

Whoa, this has got to be the coolest block up engine restoration I've ever seen...nice work!

Thanks... I'm just tryin to represent for volvo diesel power for once. Its been to the track a bunch of times with the old worn out engine. I plan to put the smack down on a few more cars with the new engine.

Jason

Ok, big time update. The engine and trans is out! I took everything out Monday, and started cleaning up the engine compartment, cross member, etc... Spent quite a while with degreaser and the power washer. Also attached are some pictures of cleaned up pieces waiting to be painted for the new engine, and my custom remote oil filter mount with turbo oil inlet tapped into it. All I have left to do is pull the trans off the engine and take a look at it for the 5th gear problem, and see whats up with the clutch. I'm hoping its just oiled from all the leaks from the engine. If its dry, the plate has crapped out and I'll have to send it out to get it rebuilt which will be the next hold up. Plans also include rewiring the main engine harness for a much cleaner look, as well as deleting some of the unused wires like the oil level sender, the boost switch, etc... I hated how the wires were routed, and I want as much of the engine to show as possible, rather than it be covered up with a tangled mess of wires and hoses!
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...o/102_2652.jpg
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http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...o/102_2658.jpg
Ha! I should have posted some before pictures, but I'm sure most of you know how oily/grease caked everything is under these engines after 25 years!

Jason

Got the transmission off the engine, and the clutch off. The p-plate is pretty torn up thanks to that 6 puck clutch. Doesn't seem to have done much to the flywheel though. I would have expected the shoe of a german sachs clutch to be a little harder. It may have been slipping from grease flying out of the needle bearing in the crank, there was some grease type build up on the flywheel side of the disc. With how much material is off the plate though, I'm sure the clamping pressure is down. I'm going to see if clutchnet can rebuild/remachine it. Also, the imput shaft bearing on the T-5 has some play, but its comming apart anyway. Guess I have to find a pilot bearing that actually fits. I'm suprised that the bearing crapped out that quick, with the imput shaft being as short as it is, and the bearing is pretty big. Power steering bracket and pump is on the engine, along with the fan pulley mount, alterantor, and ac brackets. All the parts are cleaned and painted except for the intake manifold which I still need to take off the engine, and the injection pump which I'm taking to work today to rinse off in our clean tank. Dont want to risk getting any crap in it, so I'm not gonna go crazy with the clean up and paint, just get it reasonably clean, and I'll paint the brackets and such. Pics to come!

Jason

Well here it is... Almost done, all I need to do is mount the turbo and intake manifold. They are still stuck on the old engine. Just about everything else is on... I'm not going to install the injectors and lines untill after its in the car and timed, that way it will turn over more easily so I can crank oil pressure. I'll also install the a/c compressor after its in, it kinda hangs down and is in the way for getting the engine set in I thought... I took some closer up shots so you can see some of the detail. I have ended up taking everything totally apart, the power steering mounting stuff, ac brackets, and also ended up painting some of the hardware black... Alex says its gotten outa hand and will be covered in oil in 15,000 miles anyway...lol I cant help it!

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...o/102_2666.jpg
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Jason

Looks great man, respect.

Ha, i knew you'd take some pics last night. i was expecting some turbo/stack pics. Definitely a peice of work. If it runs as good as it looks you wont drive the bug anymore.

Alex

Ya didn't get to the turbo... I wanted to the get injection pump mounted up so it wouldn't be getting kicked around the garage. I'll probably get the turbo and stuff on today hopefully.

If it runs half as good as it looks it should do some work... But it ins't the bug.

Jason

Well here are the last couple pics... All done and just waiting for my new clutch to show up. Also a close up detail shot of how the remote mounted oil filter and fittings on the block worked out. A hell of alot more room around the turbo and easily plenty of area for a larger compressor when the time comes.

Jason
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Clutch should be in today. I got the 5th gear problem fixed on the T5, and its ready to go as well. Next pictures should be of the engine getting dropped in. Planning on getting it at least set in the car saturday afternoon after work, and hopefully running this weekend!

Jason

Jason, your new motor is looking NICE! congrats! I can't wait to see the video of its first start up!

Looks awesome.

Two things: one, your drivers side motor mount looks pretty well collapsed -- they need to look straight when they're off the car, if it already looks squished like that without any load on it then it will not last too long on the car. Two, you might want to change the position your injection pump is installed at -- it's best to try to rotate the pump further out, meaning tilt the top more away from the engine. It needs to be at least far enough out that the marks on the pump and the pump bracket line up (looks good that way); and you may even want to set it further out than that. The reason is that if you tilt the pump too far in towards the motor, then the boost enrichment device gets in the way of removing #5 and #6 injectors, and also make for even tighter clearance in there for getting wrenches in to work on glow plugs, etc. Giving yourself a little extra space is a good idea. You'll time it by moving the rear sprocket on the cam anyway, so the pump's position doesn't matter other than making sure you leave space for injector work.

Can't wait to hear how this thing runs.

It got a new motor mount on the drivers side.. That one was pounded. As for the injection pump... That would have been a good idea if I would have read that a couple days ago, but the engine is in the car.. I can get to the injector though but its close!

That being said..... ITS ALIVE!!!

I got it started up last night for the first time after a two day long oil pressure debacle... It was really fighting me trying to get the oil system primed and build pressure before I started it. I had the injectors out, the rear end of the car jacked up as high as my jack would go, and the oil filter off and it would not pump any damn oil! I even added an extra quart of oil thinking the slightly higher level would help get it into the pump... No go. Ended up removing the oil relief plug on the pump and stuffing a hose and funel in there, and backfilling the pump and turning the engine over backwards by hand to suck some oil in to get it primed. I guess it just had a big air bubble it couldn't pump. The oil pump got installed a few months back now so I suspect the oil I dumped in when I assembled it had drained out and things were pretty dry. The engine sounds good, I still need to hook up the radiator, install belts, and figure out what happened to the vac pump... It took a crap for some reason. Its got no suction, and all I did was remove it off the old engine and bolt it on this one! I didn't drop it or anything like that. I'm gonna take it off and have a look inside it I guess. I didn't forget the pushrod before you ask! I'll have vid of it running here shortly, and some pics of it in the engine compartment... Man does it look clean! I spent about 4 hours on wiring and plumbing of vac lines, oil system etc.. I really didn't like how the engine harness was routed and wanted to show off the engine, so I rewired most of it, trimmed down the power steering pump lines, and vac lines that go to the hvac, cruise, etc and got that tucked up next to the fender a little tighter. End result is much cleaner. I got everything zip tied and routed, I just need to pick up some loom from work.

One other question... I found some extra wires in the harness that goes under the engine, and traced them up to the fender, to a plug, and down to some kind of sensor in the batt tray??? What is that? The wires were already cut inside the loom and I have no idea where they hooked up on the pass side of the engine.

Jason

Here are some engine install progress pictures, and some close up pics of the engine now that its in. I took some closer in so you can see (or not see actually) all the engine wiring... Man I cant wait to start driving this thing.. Fresh clutch, a 5th gear that actually will shift in normally, AND.... wait for it.... COMPRESSION!!!!

Jason


http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...3/102_2673.jpg
I don't know if you can tell, but the volvo is smiling right now...

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...3/102_2674.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...3/102_2684.jpg
whats hiding under the hood in that volvo?? just an old junkbox volvo diesel.... its slow....

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...3/102_2691.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...3/102_2690.jpg
Hmm.. looks like I need to tighten up the fuel filter a little more so you can see the "CAT" logo.

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...102_2692-1.jpg
no more wires/power steering hoses/vac crap everywhere!

Jason

Awesome build Jason- I love it! Your attention to detail is truly impressive; I especially love the small touches like the on block oil pressure gauge.

Thanks,
that was a left over in the garage, and I always like a gauge to be able to watch it crank oil pressure to verify what its getting... The light comes on at what 10lbs? I like a little more specific info than that! I really let the OCD take hold on the build, once I started painting/cleaning/detailing I couldn't stop. I runs as good as it looks though, except for a little issue with how it runs when cold. I have yet to do a compression test, but I think a couple valves may be leaking. It has gotten better every day so I'm thinking they are seating in and will seal up fine. That being said, it runs freakin' awesome! The low end little to no boost power is night and day from before, even the sound of the engine is different. Much deeper and a little louder now. It really sounds like a dump truck pulling away if your standing behind it! No where near as much smoke driving around and under light acceleration... It can definently handle more fuel and boost! The old engine was drowning in the amount of fuel I was pushing that would clean up with 20lbs of boost. Once I get the 12mm head on the pump, we are really gonna see what this thing can do! I'm interested to see what it can do down the qtr once its fully broke in, it only has about 125 miles on it right now. I'm confident I'll be within my goal of a second quicker.

Jason

That is really neat! Great job!

Do you think a majority of the new sound and performance you are experiencing at the low end with no boost is due to the NA camshaft?

So jealous! Congrats man! that looks amazing, and I am so happy to see such a clean and beautiful D24T!

Its getting me pumped up about doing something. I need to rebuild one of my D24T's and get it all perfect. So much fun you have there. Take lots of pictures/videos. Good work man.

Thanks for the compliments.. As for the power and sound, I think it has more to do with the compression than anything. I haven't measured the stock TD cam to compair yet, but I have a feeling the cam difference is a old wives tale. The cam in the NA and turbo 1.6 engines was no different, I don't see why it would have been for the 2.4. I noticed an improvement with the NA manifold, but I had that on the other engine already. Really can tell that the head has some work though, the pump settings are the same, but the top end pull at about 3k up is unbelievable! Once its not 12 degrees, I'll get some new video!

Jason

WOW Jason!!

I wasn't been here a while...

What a nice job, totally awesome.
I think this is the most beautifull D24T ever seen!Just look at the details!The CAT-styling is perfectly done including the CAT-filter.
You combined best of both worlds.....

Thanks! It has surpassed my expectations in how it runs... I cant believe how much cleaner it burns esecially off boost. Just no where near the amount of smoke. I can't wait to turn up the pump and boost to see what it can do. I still haven't removed the crimped on collar on the main fuel screw. Once it gets a few more miles on it and I switch over to synthetic oil, I'll be maxing the pump out and cranking up the boost however much it needs to clean up the fuel. She should scream then!

Jason

This night i had more time to read the complete story and i can tell you; i had exactly the same oil-pressure-problems with my overhauled D24TIC !!!!
Also unscrewed the pressurevalve and tried to bleed the airbubbels etc. etc. The D24 seems to be a problem-engine if it has to suck-up oil fot the first time......
Finally it was working for me too but it takes several hours to get that far.

Question;
I see a short water-pipe facing upwards from your thermostat-housing.What kind of water/coolant-hose will be connected to that pipe?
Maybe a parking-heater or so?I ask that because i am installing a parking-heater these days, so if there's a possibility to connect the heater i can remove my plug and install a pipe like your's to connect.(my D24TIC has a kind of freeze-plug in stead of a pipe....

About the wire's / function you are looking after; i really don't know, wish i could help you out.

(i wrote a little story about the parking-heater at the swedish forum because i expected more knowledge overthere about cold wheter solutions; http://forum.svenska200klubben.se/viewtopic.php?t=36255 )

The pipe you are seeing I blocked off, it used to have a coolant hose to it that ran to the crappy D24t stock water/oil cooler. Being that you have a factory IC engine you have a front mount oil cooler, which is what I installed on my engine. I did install a block heater as well, it is in one of the freeze plug holes on the pass side of the block. I didn't end up installing it untill after I put the engine in, but man what a difference it makes. It starts up and runs smooth right away even with temps in the teens. Well worth it. My heater is a "Kats" block heater, I don't know if you can get them over on your side of the pond though. I'm not sure you could find a heater thats small enough to go in that spot, the heater I have is the size of one of the freeze plugs, and the element barely fits in the water jacket area. Its 400 watts.

Jason

http://www.warehouseautoparts.com/st...aters.html#968

its the 10420 heater, its on sale for 21 bucks right now!

Jason

Thanks Jason, for your explanation.
I can't park in front of my home,i have to park on a public street and sometimes it's so busy that my car is standing 50 meters from home.
I know, a extensioncable is a posible option but you know, i come from Holland and there's a chance that i find my car cold in the morning while someone uses my electric power to feed his assimilation-lamps to let his weed grow. :-)

So i 'm building a independable diesel-heater as you can see in the link i posted.Today i made a T-connection to the engine to heat up the engine and the interior in the same time.Right now i leave this beautifull topic and please feel free to delete my postings in this topic to keep it "on-topic".
When the heater is finished i'll make a specific topic on that.

Ask Tom Bryant about this- I believe he's taken specific measurements on the difference, and even has some data to back up the (minor) performance improvement. There's not exactly a lot of after-market cam options for D24Ts though!

I had brought it up on the mailing list, but never got a response with specific measurements... No big deal taking my own. Either way the new engine runs awesome, if the NA cam is the same as the TD, its not like I downgraded so who cares. If its a little bit bigger than its helping it push a little extra power. The engine comes on so hard now when the boost comes up, I really need to get into the injection pump and mod the gov assembly, and max the fueling out. I'm pretty impatient, but I'm waiting untill it gets a few more miles under its belt and everything is seated in. I'm going to go over the valves as well before I really start running it hard to make sure everything is within specs.

Jason

Hi! Long time since my last visit to this forum, not a volvo owner anymore :-(...
Your engine rebuild looks great... any video/ pictures after installation??
Would like to here how a "new" D24tic sounds like...
Best regards/ Tommy

There are pictures on the page before this of the engine in the car, but no videos yet.

Jason

Jason- how did you cap off the stock oil cooler coolant lines? I'm thinking about using a 11x11x1.5" B&M Supercooler for an oil cooler.

Whoops didn't notice the question here.. I used a 3/8" pipe plug in the metal elbow on the head and just welded it in, I didn't like the idea of a hose and some kind of plug with a couple clamps, thats just something waiting to fail or leak. For the larger outlet on the block at the T-stat, I found a larger plug of some kind, just something laying around, and welded that solid as well. Some may not like the welding idea as its permanent, but I can see no reason to ever go backwards and use the stock cooler again. It was also nice to rid the engine bay of a couple more hoses that just clutter up the nice looking paint job!

Jason

You probably figured this out by now, but::::::::::::::::::: That would be the battery temp sensor wires. Originally I think the idea was to regulate charging based on battery temperature. I don't know if this was specific to the diesels or not. The orig. Bosch alternator had a socket-type dual bullet connector on the back of the regulator that these wires plugged into.

While repairing the deteriorated engine wiring on my car, I also found these wires cut (under the battery tray). I'm hoping it charges fine without this circuit active.