With the plug disconnected from the back of the alternator, they work just like a normal alternator.

It's an interesting idea that theoretically would both shorten charge times and improve battery longevity by charging at a higher voltage while the battery is cool, but in practice battery acid destroys the sensor and causes it to over-charge when the battery is hot. Volvo later released a FSB that they should all be left disconnected, to revert to normal (non battery temp sensing) operation.

A lead acid battery can be safely (and more quickly) charged at higher voltages at low temperatures, which also helps to avoid sulfation BUT it's absolutely critical to drop this voltage lower at high temperatures to prevent battery damage. A charging system without a temp sensor must assume high temp at all times, and charge the battery with a lower voltage which results in slower charging, and more sulfation (which can shorten battery life).

In theory it's a cost-saving feature that improves battery longevity, but in practice it's an overly complex unreliable system which reduces battery longevity.

Nice explanation.

Wish I knew this when I was chasing around for a replacement alternator. Thought it needed to have the funny dual bullet connector on the back of it (rare). I wanted to upgrade to an alt w/ higher amps rating because planning to add 2nd heated seat and better headlights.

I've never had a problem with the charging system... One of the few things on the car that I haven't had to mess with!

Jason

I'm interested to know more about the part number of the remote oil filter adapter you used. Also where to get it etc. I'd like to do this as I think my current one is leaking and letting coolant mix with the engine oil.

Looks verry good!

What pump mods have you done and what injectors are you running?

Ever tested different opening pressures on the injectors?

To Lepsyl: I'm running the DNOSD 273 "GTD" nozzles, I've set them to a higher opening pressure, right around 2400 to 2450 psi, or as close to that as I could get in that range. That was a good few hundred psi higher than the stock and the performance was improved quite a bit. However, I also went from old worn out original injectors. I haven't tried different pressures on the new ones, and I can really imagine the performance difference would be night and day. With the amount of work it is to R&R the injectors, along with reshiming, testing, and doing it over untill you get them all the same, its not really worth it to me to mess with at this point. Pump mods I have done are listed in the performance section, though I'm in the process of building a "built" pump with a 12mm head.

As for the remote oil filter mount, we sell them at work, they are about $15. I used one on the block as well and just cut off the mounting bracket thats cast into it. We have them in ports up, left, and right. Its a full flow filter mount for a air cooled vw bug, just about every vw shop has them if there's one in your area. If not you can always call me up at the shop and we can ship them.

Jason

So, if I understand you correctly, you modified the portion of the existing oil cooler/filter mount on the d24t block adapter to accept the oil hoses which you ran to the full flow filter mount? Sounds simple. Did you just hose clamps, or did you tap the existing modified oil filter adapter?

Never mind. I found the kit and now notice that it comes with an adapter for the block AND and adapter for the filter. When you said you modified the portion that hooks to the block, what exactly did you need to do?

Jason

I just cut off the mounting flange that would be used to bolt the filter adapter to something, since it was in the way of threading it down onto the block. If you look closely at the pictures you can see where it was cut off when its on the block.

Jason

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...o/102_2646.jpg

If you look at the bottom of the adapter, you can see where I cut off the 3 bolt flange, and just threaded it down to the block. Has worked great and no leaks sealing it up with permatex rigid gray silicone.

Jason

Really nice rebuild! And that color on block and head fits really nicely to that car/ eng compartment. Ill like it!
Some technical changes also made.. Waiting too see better quarter-mile time on you when your drived that motor in.

Any updates Jason?

Must be about broken in by now...

I raced it at the Scheid diesel extravaganza, heres a video, sorry the quality is crappy: http://www.youtube.com/user/vwjunkie.../0/duqL9-ODHWA

Improved on my best 1/8 mile time by over a half second, and was burning the tires off through 1st gear... Power is pretty impressive.

In the video I'm racing common rail dodge cummins auto, even with a boosted launch and getting me off the line, I still mowed him down on the top end!

Jason

Have to say, that thing really starts to look its going somewhere o.O
Are you yourself happy for results? Any plans for future?

I'm still in the process of collecting parts to build a 12mm injection pump. I bought the head and rotor assembly, but it wouldn't work with the factory cam plate, the plunger was protruding from the bore in the head. I need to order the corresponding cam plate for the cummins 6bt pump that the head is supposed to be for in order for everything to be at the correct measurements I think. Otherwise, the car is pretty much as good as its gonna get I think, just need more fuel and probably a bigger turbo once I get the built pump together, or I may do a compound turbo setup just for the wow factor. I have a T66 turbo which was too big for the engine to spool on its own very well, but as the low pressure turbo to push a few pounds of boost into the current T3/T4 I think it would work nicely. We will see.

Jason

Okay. Compond just sounds so cool. More wow factor you get if you manage to fit it under hood.
I think after measurements at it is possible. Ill go either HX35 or something similiar
as first turbo, ie. the one boosting throught smaller. Ill have correct part number for that
cummins plate if you need. Im ordering myself distributor head and cam plate aswell.

Lets race next summer against others? Little competition? An topic with list
of quarter-mile times, and time-card would be required as an evidence?
Any idea? Any pics for current state of car also?

I'll get a couple new pics soon... The company I bought the camplate from provided me with a part number, what number do you have? I would like to compair it to what they sent me.

Jason

Here we are loaded up going to the race at Scheid in Indiana:http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...829_121018.jpg
Obviously the car has the hood stack on at the moment, I changed the wheels to the "snowflake" wheels and now have a dual outlet exhaust tip off the 6.4 powerstroke thats towing it!
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...725_143540.jpg
Close up of the engine... Still looking pretty clean after almost a year on the road.
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...725_141049.jpg

Also wanted to mention... I had a nice talk with the editor of Diesel Power magazine... He took a few pictures of the volvo and is going to be emailing me to get all the sepcifics on the engine build and whatnot. I expect there to be some D24T coverage in the magazine in the near future... I'll keep you guys updated when I find out more details.

Jason

Holy smokes.

Looks fantastic. Nice to see two diesel Volvos mixing it up with the Powersmokes and Dirtymaxes. :cool: Looks like you showed your taillights to at least a few of them!

Really nice...

cool fender sticker too

those wheels are great on the 700 series !

Thanks!

Check out the vid section I found someone else's footage of the event thats really good quality and you can see both volvos race in the first round of eliminations. You can really hear mine screaming at redline in 1st gear burning the tires off.

Jason

Excellent thread Guys.
I'm just about to start rebuilding a D24TIC (probably the only one in Australia as this motor was never imported in any Volvo or VW sold here) so your project Jason, has been a real inspiration.

I'm a Steyr Puch Pinzgauer 6X6 (made in Austria) enthusiast (some say "nut") and have recently imported a late model parts vehicle for use in upgrading another vehicle I have.
The D24 was used in all "second generation" Pinzgauers from 1985 to 2000-2, initially as a turbo charged unit only with later models having intercooling as well.

I'm no diesel expert (pre 1985 Pinzgauers had an aircooled petrol motor) so I'm very glad I found this forum with all the expertise that has been exhibited on this thread.

Keep up the great posts!

Peter
www.ozpinz.com

Well a D24 in a Steyr Puch is a new one to me! Good think you know your way around them cuz I doubt anyone here will be much help! As for the engine, we should be able to get you going in the right direction. 6x6? sounds like a hell of an off road vehicle... I'm sure the turbo diesel torque will be a welcome addition to your vehicle!

Jason

Thanks Jason. I'm looking forward to this project and I'm sure I'II have lots of questions re the D24.

Here is a video of a D24TIC working in a 718K Pinzgauer.


[video=youtube;Z_Tj13vI3Ss]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_Tj13vI3Ss[/video]

Peter

Holy crap that thing is freaking huge!!! Now THAT is cool. They never had those in the states. We never get any of the cool cars over here. What I would do just for a D24 powered LT truck to use as a car hauler for my VW and other vehicles.

Jason

Our project exactly like that is currently under few cm's of snow, and making it d24btic hasn't had any progress for a few months. Our aircooled VW race car's engine case cracked to oil pressure line behind the flywheel (the same place they weld reinforcement in some of the new cases) so that has to be fixed first. Some new tricks going to be there also, 4x46mm throttle bodies already bought along with pressure sensor for inlet manifold with enough scale... :)

What thermoswitch do you use ?

i'm working on a E fan conversion and i don't really know what temps it should run and what thermoswitch i should use.
stock temps dash gauges are quite innacurate.

I need some help.

Been a while since I looked at this thread... Almost forgot how much work I sank into the engine build!

Its been in the car since the end of 2010 and I haven't had a problem with it other than the oil pump gasket blowing out, which I think was caused by one of the 6mm bolts working loose. In hindsight I probably should have put a dab of red locktite on them. I had to drop the crossmember and pull the pan to get the oil pump off. What a pain in my ass.. The bottom of the oil pan inside was totally clean, not a spec of anything so that was nice to see. The engine has around 25 to 30k miles on it now..

Jason

How'd you block off that hose nipple?
 

Jason, its been a few years, but how did you block off this coolant hose that was used for the oil cooler? I'm taking about where the nipple for the hose sticks up vertically from out of the thermostat housing. I removed my oil cooler and I now need to block this one off, thanks.

I'm not sure what Jason did, but I removed the nipple and installed a freeze plug.

Anders, that sounds great! How does the nipple come out? Is it press-fit in, or threaded and screwed in place? By any chance do you know the size of the freeze plug you used?

Thanks,

It's pressed in, I used a punch from the inside of the block where the thermostat goes and punched it out. I believe I have the size of it written down somewhere.

Here is a picture of the freeze plug installed.

I didn't find out what size the freeze plug was but I got a Dorman part #555-016. You should be able to bring that number down to a parts store and get the correct plug.

Anders, thank you buddy, your advise, picture, and part number really helped me out. I was finally able to track down a Dorman "555-016" (23.90mm) freeze plug at a semi-local auto parts dealer. I'll get to installing it tomorrow!

I will be Reading this throu and Throu...!!!

I came across a 85 760 GLE TDI

and I'm looking over your sholder...!!! Thx

Ron

Ohhh NOoooo...!!!

Your a VW Guy too... Hahaha

I was just looking at the first few pix on this thread

OIL gauge
 

Jason I love the idea of the oil monitoring system, could you share what exactly it was? i`d like to have one of those gauges.
Thank you!!