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ngoma 05-08-2014 02:21 PM

Getting harder and harder to start
 
4 Attachment(s)
Having recently swapped the battery for another one of less capacity, I had thought the hard starting was from having a less powerful battery. Needed lots of cranking. Getting progressively worse. Finally when it would start it would barely idle, but seemed fine at higher RPMs.

Then I checked the lower portion of the IP and its mounting bracket up under near the pulley; it was wet with fuel. Means the classic "Leaking IP main shaft seal allows air ingress when stopped" was letting the IP (and incoming fuel lines) fill with air.

Local Bosch dealer had the correct 17mm ID seal, Bosch p/n 1 460 283 312. BTW here are the dimensions: 17x28x7.3. $18, May 2014 price.

Attachment 364

Attachment 365

Of course the Bosch tech told me these are "newer, improved" and not as likely to leak as the older style.

This car sat for 2-3 years with biodiesel of unknown quality in the system. The IP mainshaft had a coating of hard carmelized chicken skin. This roughness likely had something to do with the seal failure.

Here are some photos showing the (partially cleaned off w/ a popsicle stick and lacquer thinner) buildup:

Attachment 366

Attachment 367

These seals are NEVER easy to remove, hence the scars on the front surface of housing, much as I tried to be careful. Tried the greenbook method of drill two small holes and insert screws. Tried levering it out with a cut-away small screwdriver. Finally had to hammer the edge in towards the center in one spot, which relieved the pressure enough to pull it out.

This area sees minimal pressure when running. Probably what leaks past the bushing, to lubricate the seal. When I was testing with the low-PSI electric lift pump (8 PSI?) it did cause fuel to drip out of the bad seal, maybe 1 drip/5-10 sec.

A full 8 hours, which included the trip to the Bosch shop.

745 TurboGreasel 05-09-2014 02:00 PM

That seal is $9 from local CR supplier.
comes out super easy with Lisle 58430.
I changed on e on the motor in aobut 10 minutes, but it was not in the car. I think you might be able to do in car if you had to.
clip the belt to the both IP pulleys, and remove the one on the IP, keyway will insure you are sill in time.

ngoma 05-09-2014 11:02 PM

Lisle 58430? NOW you tell me!:( Where did you get yours?

Yes I can see it might be possible to remove the seal without removing the IP by this method. But how would you install the new seal? Firewall impedes any hammer swing. How would you clean the IP main shaft?

745 TurboGreasel 05-10-2014 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ngoma (Post 8576)
Lisle 58430? NOW you tell me!:( Where did you get yours? I was in a hurry to do something, so I paid an extra $5 at my local Advance Auto.

Yes I can see it might be possible to remove the seal without removing the IP by this method. But how would you install the new seal? Threaded shaft FTW, or maybe socket and prybar as a press. Firewall impedes any hammer swing. How would you clean the IP main shaft?If there is anything hard enough you can't wipe it off, outlook for the pump is??? The internals don't normally need cleaning.

At least yours was running before.

I can't see the pics, asks me to log in (to your account?) is the link right?


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