The car got a full service before I picked it up at a local mechanic. After I got it home 1400k's later, I took it to my diesel mechanic. He said it was a very happy and healthy motor. The D24T currently in the car is not the original engine, it's still a 83' D24T motor but it has under 100,000 - he didn't specify k's or miles. I will replace anyway, better safe than sorry. Is it a timing belt or a timing chain? and where can I buy them? Thanks

It was parked for 10years.

!!!

Please dont use it because there is a high risk of damages...if timing belt breaks. There must be a VW guy out there to help (tools, skills, etc)

Any LT trucks made it there in the 80s btw? How about in AUS?

Thermostat should be the 80°C version out there. You have no Winters...:)

That is great news! :D Easy starting, good power, low smoke, quiet smooth idle are all good signs.

The issue with an old timing belt is similar to old tires. The "rubber" compound degrades, cracks, and becomes less pliable. Chunks can separate, etc.


Fiberglass-reinforced belt.

My FLAPS has them (Autozone, P/N 95083), yours might also. Time before that I got a Continental brand [CONTITECH TB083 {#069109119A, 1257223, 3507227} Length: 44.63 (in), 1134.00 (mm); Width: 1.00 (in), 25.00 (mm); Number of Teeth: 119] belt from Rockauto. Not expensive.

Might as well get a valve cover gasket because you will be opening that up. Not sure ATM where to get the one-piece all-rubber ones. If you are going to order from Rockauto, see if you can get them to describe the VC gasket style. Their pictures show the old 4-piece cork north/south + rubber east/west sections that were always leakers, but unless those are real old stock, I had heard that the only ones currently manufactured are the one-piece black "rubber" ones that seal better, so maybe that's what they actually send?

Do you think a block flush would help? Do the D24T's even like an acidic block flush? Just thinking that sitting for 10 years in a farm industrial area, it could help because all off the crap it collected over the years of sitting.

What is the specific problem you are trying to solve with a "block flush?" What is a "block flush?"

I think he means getting rid of all leftover debris by flushing the engine (="block") completely, allowing higher pressures of water entering for a longer period of time then reversing the direction and keep switching between routes of "flushing" through the entire cooling system, including the engibe block itself.
The overheat problem probably runs somewhere else though. I suspect the wrong thermostat too. He has a lot of things to confirm before trusting it.

I heard citric acid works wonders but after ten years of car sitting untouched (AND unknown history of proper maintenance) I would definitely stop experimenting around the cooling system and probably would decide by a full (real full) tune-up... Valves adjusted --- at the minimum, then hoses, top gasket and all you can think of, including getting fresh nozzles, glowplugs, and maybe much more (check and flush and adjust pump, do waterpump, belts and possibly even check wiring).

I hope it turns out to be a great runner!!!
As #1, I dont get it why PO ran it without the thermostat.

Yea, I may give it an engine flush just to eliminate that cause. It sat for 10 years after all. The car runs great, it starts up turn of the key no matter how long it's been sitting. Doesn't get that cold here often in NZ, so that helps. Also it doesn't smoke, you get it on the highway and put your foot down and it responds, the car pulls great.

I would trust it on any journey, just that cooling issue would have to be solved. New hoses will be done, will be getting a set of silicon hoses eventually. I want to replace the cooling system parts so I know it's good, such as waterpump and temperature sensor. Temperature sensor could have a lot of carbon build up around it making it read wrong. Just finding parts is the hard part.

VERY unlikely. Carbon buildup in the cooling system? :confused:

Anyway, easy enough to unscrew it and take a look at the business end of the sensor. Let us know what it looks like.

Changed my mind. Maybe not so easy to remove the temp sensor because of the PS pump bracket obstructs. Easiest step would be to correlate gauge temps with a non-contact infrared thermometer.

I'm curious,
In New Zealand, can you "sometimes" see other diesel Volvos on the road? Are they 240, 740, 760, 940 cars? And did they ever get the 5cyl tdi versions of newer Volvo cars?
Do you have the European vintage LT trucks out there? (Made by VW)...lt28, lt35, lt45 etc those would have the d24&d24t parts you may need.

These diesel Volvos are becoming very rare sight, even in Europe!! And nowdays there are all these bans against all diesel powered vehicles (and against all gasoline powered vehicles too)...all over in Europe, pretty much in all of Europe's countries.

I thought I would ask You how it is going in NZ?!
And I found one article that mentions possible new sanctions in the future in NZ.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/teggtal...-vehicles/amp/
I hope you get your car running great soon and that you find a d24t parts-car soon enough to make sure your d24t powered Volvo will stay on the road (before potential d24 leftovers end up getting scrapped). Do you have d24 240 volvos at least? It must already be a rare sight out there!
Keep bricking! :)