Do not order from this link. They sent me one that had bent edges and it was made in Brazil, stamped.
I had to return it for a refund, it wasnt original (it was not Wahler).

https://www.ewktool.com/vw-audi-volv...e-timing-tools

Is this the correct timing kit to safely do the timing belt swap?

Apparently the dial gauge extension housing has a second extension that, when assembled together provides enough length to attach a dial gauge forward of the vacuum pump. Otherwise, you will need to remove the vacuum pump.

The belt tension pin wrench: Does your engine have a belt tensioner?

Additional tools you will need:
Dial indicator
Camshaft pulley lever (shown here)

Additional tools that make for a much better experience:
Dogleg wrench (for tight space rear camshaft pulley bolt)(also shown here)

Others are encouraged to list their favorite versions. Some have found suitable on ebay.

The crank pulley counterhold tool is also necessary. The wrench extension for the crank bolt helps too but in theory you can get away without it if your torque wrench (or breaker bar plus cheater pipe and some careful math) can deliver the full 350+ lb-ft of torque that you need to put on if you don't have the extension.

I remember someone here once wrote that installing that crankshaft pulley will involve tightening a bolt much, much tighter than anything you have ever worked on before. That is a good description. Loosening it should take at least as much force.

That tool set will be a good start, though. Some of the pieces (eg the tensioner tool and IP lock dowel) are meant for use on the VW 4 cylinder engines that the kit is also designed for, so there will be some extra parts. The camshaft locking plate and dial indicator holder and rod are the parts that will be useful to you. As ngoma said you will also need a dial indicator and a counterhold tool for the cam sprockets.

I'm remembering a way to avoid having to remove/replace that tremendously high-torque crankshaft center bolt:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Can't you remove the crankshaft pulleys (dampner) via the 4 inhex screws? Wouldn't that allow clearance to slide the TB off the crankshaft cog? This would avoid having to source the crank counterhold tool and the crank bolt wrench extension tool, trading for a much easier to obtain common 6mm new sharp high-quality hex bit (allen).